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Fridge and Wine cooler Guide


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#21 seadub

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Posted 29 March 2010 - 05:20 PM

Ok.. I have a question about this... I'm upgrading to a wine cooler (fridgeador) from a coolerador ... Basically because of the size - NOT THE COOLING ABILITY. In fact, I found a great deal on a glass door wine fridge that has a cooling issue (it doesn't cool! haha)- it has built-in fans for air circulation, stainless accented wooden trays, blue led lights and a gorgeous blue led display for temp - that I'd love to convert in to RH display!

I don't want to run the compressor to cool - even if it did work, I don't want the added electricity expense. Any issue with running the fridge without plugging it in? I can't see why- it would just be a big glorified cooler at that point right?


It certainly doesn't seem that it would matter if you're not using the fridge for cooling and only for storage.

I did speak with a Sr. Designer at Vinotemp and he "schooled" me about the compressor cooling units they use in Vinotemp products (I was actually at the Vinotemp factory in LA). He told me that they are designed specifically for use with Wine and designed to not completely draw the moisture out of the air. David went on to tell me that the cooling units will allow an RH between 55%-75% (and some units are actually programmable). I'm not a wine-drinker/hoarder, but apparently the "ideal" wine storage conditions are fairly close to the ideal storage conditions for cigars (at least as far as there is an acceptable range of temperature and humidity that's good for both).

Here's a link for more information on Vinotemp.

Hopefully this additional information is helpful. And I don't work for Vinotemp. I've just been looking around at options considering another hot LA summer is on the way. :thumbs:


--->edited for some bad grammar

Edited by seadub, 29 March 2010 - 05:22 PM.


#22 Toaster

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Posted 29 March 2010 - 05:39 PM

This is the one I got, its a Kenmore elite model. (click the picture for more details)

Posted Image

Its actually a super nice wine fridge - I think... Its dual zone, 2 adjustments, etc... it just don't get cold... and actually - one zone doesn't cool, the other does cool..... I've already figured out how to manually wire in the fans and LED's - I'd love to make the big bright LED temperature adjustments be RH readings............. I'm sure there's a way - i just havn't figure it out yet.

Edited by Toaster, 29 March 2010 - 05:44 PM.


#23 flamchop

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Posted 02 April 2010 - 04:56 PM

I got the NewAir wine fridge in the mail the other day. Got it wiped down and aired out to get the plastic smell out and it's holding at a perfect 65 degrees right now. This weekend I'll transfer over my stash and humidity beads from the old unit (Vinotemp). But so far I've had no issues, was delivered as promised, is working as promised (so far), has a cool blue display and light... should work out for me I think.

Got a fellow BOTL making some cedar shelves and once those are in I should be up and running. I had no problems ordering through Amazon.

#24 Shortystogie

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Posted 07 April 2010 - 05:42 AM

Great guide....I'm thinking of converting an apt. sized fridge, the one with the small freezer in it....this is helpful.....thoughts on the fact it HAS a freezer (not frost-free)?


I originally read your post wrong thinking you wanted to convert a freezer so here goes a revised response. The way the freezer compartments work in the small fridges is that the cooling channels run through the metal that forms the freezer compartment. This is basically the source for all cooling within these types of fridges. If you regulate the temperature and not allow it to get too cold, then you should be fine. However, without some additional control over the temperature, ice will buildup which is obviously not good.



Chad,

Great info, bro.

So if I read you correctly, if your little room fridge has a freezer section, and you install a secondary temp controller / thermostat and regulate the temp, you should be ok?

I have this fridge and have been scouring the net for information. This has by far been the most structured post.

Thanks,

Fauzi

#25 chadth

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Posted 07 April 2010 - 07:28 PM

Chad,

Great info, bro.

So if I read you correctly, if your little room fridge has a freezer section, and you install a secondary temp controller / thermostat and regulate the temp, you should be ok?

I have this fridge and have been scouring the net for information. This has by far been the most structured post.

Thanks,

Fauzi


The freezer section is going to cause a cold spot around it. You may want to avoid it.

#26 Logan

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 12:21 PM

I finally got my EdgeStar TWR282S up and running. Mine came from livingdirect.com with free shipping and was on sale for around $200. No major plastic smell at all. I simply left it sitting open by an open window for a day and it was completely free and clear of any stank.

1 pound of Heartfelt beads and a velcro Hygrometer with temp. display later the fridge is cooling to around 68 degrees (at its warmest setting) and is holding everything at right around 72% humidity. I even used it to reseason my desktop limited edition Punch humidor that holds my singles.

So far I have a box of El Rico Habano and a box of Kristoff Criollo Matadors in it with more to be added very soon.

#27 flamchop

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 02:20 PM

Just to update my posts about the NewAir Thermoelectric 28 bottle. I would say this NewAir is worthy to be added to the list of wine fridges on the original post. I would buy it through Amazon.com shipped for under $200.

I've had it up and running for a while now, and it's keeping temps of 63-66 based on the hydro's I have in the unit. And RH has been steady around 65% with about 1.5 lbs. of beads from heartfelt.

I also had no plasic smell... it aired out in a day. I guess the real test will be to see if it's still working like this a year from now.

#28 jepe

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Posted 05 August 2010 - 12:27 AM

Where can I get the Oust Fan in another store than Amazon ?
Amazon doesn't ship electronics products to Israel.

Edited by jepe, 05 August 2010 - 12:27 AM.


#29 Stogie367

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Posted 22 February 2011 - 06:04 PM

Good information thanks for sharing

#30 Stogie367

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Posted 24 February 2011 - 11:08 AM

Fridge and Wine cooler Guide


Changes

05/22/2009 - Added a related discussions section
04/22/2009 - Added links to specific items I used in my project and underlined links to make them obvious
04/16/2008 - Added additional RH references
08/22/2007 - Added links to specific projects
08/20/2007 - Fixed some readability issues and added additional information regarding auto defrost systems in fridges with a reference.


Introduction
Many individuals look to fridges and wine coolers as a less expensive means of controlling temperature for their cigar storage. The primary driver for a temperature controlled environment for cigars is the fear of tobacco beetles. Even if the fridge is not plugged in, they make for great humidors at a fraction of the cost of a traditional cabinet. Because the technology employed within each is similar, I will refer to them collectively as fridges throughout this guide. Important differences between the two will be noted where appropriate.

What to look for
There are a wide range of fridges on the market that employ different technology for temperature control and monitoring. In addition, there are subtle differences between them that are important to understand when selecting one for your cigars.

Type
There are two major types of fridges on the market, compressor and thermoelectric cooling models. Compressor systems are the most and use the evaporation of a liquid within a closed system for cooling[1]. The thermoelectric cooling systems utilize the Peltier effect[2] and heat sinks to cool the air. Thermoelectric cooling systems are most popular within wine coolers because wine enthusiasts prefer a vibration free system (no moving parts) as vibrations may upset a wine's sediment. Thermoelectric systems also are more compact in size and require less maintenance. These units almost always contain a fan to circulate the cold air from the internal cooling fins. The fan will also assist with keeping humidity consistent throughout the interior of the fridge. If you are considering a conventional fridge for cooling, ensure you stay away from models with a built-in freezer as the temperature within the fridge will be less stable and you will have less control of the auto defrost feature.

Many cigar enthusiasts also believe thermoelectric systems are less prone to condensation then compressor fridges and as such, effect the overall humidity less. However, this statement is false for one important reason. Condensation forms when the temperature of the water vapor is greater then the surface it is interacting with. Condensation also forms when the temperature of the air is cooled, causing water molecules to collide to form droplets[3]. So assuming two fridges, one compressor and one thermoelectric, are at the same internal temperature with the same humidity level and are cooled at the same rate to the same temperature, they will both create the same amount of condensation.

Size
Fridges come in a large number of sizes and form factors. The general agreement is to buy something as big as you have space and money for. One important factor to look for is the thickness of the fridge cabinet. The thicker the wall is, the more insulated the fridge should be, which means it should hold temperature longer. This will obviously be more important for people in warmer climates.

Temperature Control
Most conventional fridges utilize an analog thermostat with a dial whereas most wine coolers utilize a digital thermometer with an external display. Due to how a thermoelectric cooling system work, the thermostat measures the difference between the ambient (external) temperature and the internal temperature. This means most of the thermoelectric thermostats are calibrated for a specific temperature. Mine was calibrated for 77 degrees F so when I set my interior temperature to 65 degrees F, it may cool to below or above that, depending on the temperature of my house. Fridges employing compressor type of systems tend to be more accurate.

In either system, you will more then likely want to setup an additional thermostat for finer control of the temperature. There are a number of models available which are prewired for a fridge as they are popular for home brewers. The thermostats work by cutting the power to the fridge when the desired temperature is reached. It is generally recommended the fridge be set on its coldest setting when using one of these thermostats to ensure the desired temperature is reached. This cycling of power to compressor systems can be hard on them as they are not meant to be cycled in such a manner. There is not enough data available to measure the impact of a thermoelectric system but it is likely less of an issue. It is important to also note that built-in digital thermostats will revert back to a default setting when the power is cycled. If possible, it is recommended that the buyer either find a fridge with a built-in analog thermostat or a digital one which defaults to a low setting.

Setting up the fridge
Once a fridge is acquired, it is important to follow a number of steps to prepare it for your cigar collection.

Plastic Odor
Some fridges contain a black plastic, mostly common within wine coolers, instead of the white for the interior. This black plastic also has a more pungent and lasting smell then those found in standard coolers or fridges. The first step is to rid the fridge of any plastic smell. I have found sunlight and fresh air to be the best means of ridding the fridge of the plastic smell. Others have had luck with using baking soda, white vinegar, and even bleach. The cooler-dor thread located at http://www.cigarpass.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13217 contains various approaches and comments that would be beneficial.

Thermostat
Assuming you acquired an addition thermostat for the fridge, now is a good time to install it. The manufactures recommend running the thermometer lead along the outside of the fridge and between the cabinet and door seal. This does not require you to drill any holes that may impact the integrity of the fridge. I personally chose to drill a hole through my fridge and sealed it using insulating foam and sealant. If you chose this method, ensure you reseal the fridge and replace any insulation that you may have impacted. Also be careful not to damage the electrical and cooling systems. The thermometer should be placed as far away as possible from the cooling system to ensure an accurate temperature reading. If possible, the thermometer should not touch the sides of the cabinet as it will influence the temperature reading. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on properly wiring the thermostat.

Humidity Control
The relative humidity[4][5] within a fridge will be more difficult to control then a non-cooled cabinet. This is attributed to the formation of condensation when the interior is cooled which drops the humidity within the fridge. As such, it is recommended that a larger then normal humidity control system be used. For example, if you are using beads, I would add at least an additional 50% over the recommended amount. You may also want to employ an active humidification system to supplement the beads but I don't feel it is required. Remember, the more your fridge cools, the more condensation will form and cause more fluctuations in the humidity.

To control condensation (auto defrost), most fridges with a freezer compartment utilize a heating element[6] whereas many wine coolers use a drainage system that evaporates the excess water using hot air from a fan. We will concentrate on fridges without a freezer compartment as they are not recommended for cigar storage. We want to keep the water instead of having it drain away so we can return it to the air. How to do this will depend on what fridge you purchase and where the drain is located. However, it is generally recommended to plug the drain and divert the water back into your beads. I personally filled the drain system with insulating foam then used a sealant to plug the drain itself. I also placed humidity sheets from Heartfelt Industries along the water collection path and on the bottom to absorb the water and release it back into the air. This seems to work alright but condensation is still forming. Make sure you do not place boxes close to the back wall or water will make its way inside them and potentially ruin your cigars.

If multiple hygrometers are available, place them at various heights within the fridge. If you notice large differences (+/-5%), you may wish to add an additional fan to help circulate the air. Many people find using battery operated fans, like those from Oust to be satisfactory.

Once you have your humidity system setup, monitor it for a few days until it aligns with the ranges you expect.

Cedar and Cigar storage

The temperature and humidity swings can cause problems for exposed cigars and it is recommended that all cigars be stored within boxes inside the fridge. I grab empty boxes from my B&M for my singles. Using a box creates a micro climate for the cigars and allows them to be shielded from momentary swings with the temperature and humidity. Assuming you do this, no other cedar is required within the fridge. Adding cedar shelving may cause more harm then good as it will restrict the circulation of air. If you chose to implement cedar shelving, route or drill holes to allow air to exchange.

Conclusion
The goal of this guide is to provide an aggregate of information about utilizing fridges and wine coolers for cigar storage. I am not an expert within the field of cigars nor refrigeration but do utilize a wine cooler to store my cigars. I spent a large amount of time reading and researching the topic and hope the information contained within this guide is beneficial.

Please feel free to send me comments, recommendations, and corrections as I hope to keep this guide up to date and accurate.

Related Discussions
Thermoelectric vs Compressor

Common Products Used
Wine Fridges
Vinotemp VT-28TEDS
EdgeStar TWR282S
Whynter SNO 28-Bottle Wine Cooler - WC28S

Thermostats
Freezer Temperature Controller

Fans
Oust Portable Fan

Spanish Cedar
Spanish Cedar Trays
Spanish Cedar Planks
Custom shelves

Hygrometers
HygroSet II Adjustable Digital Hygrometer
Caliber III Thermometer Hygrometer
Boveda One-Step Calibration

References
[1] http://www.mansfieldct.org/schools/mms/sta.../heatrefrig.htm
[2] http://www.heatsink-guide.com/peltier.htm
[3] http://www.factmonster.com/ce6/sci/A0813176.html
[4] http://science.howstuffworks.com/question651.htm
[5] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Relative_humidity
[6] http://www.appliance411.com/faq/howdefrostworks.shtml

Model Specific Projects
Thermostats
Johnson Controls A19 Thermostat Wiring - xRanger
Ranco ETC111000 Thermostat Installation - Fuscat

Wine Coolers
Vinotemp 28TEDS - AKmik
Vinotemp 28TEDS - rectifythis
Avanti 1.6cu ft. Fridge - Zach
Magic Chef - UTKhodgy
Whynter SNO WC-28S - chadth
Haier HVW12ABB - JLW
Vinotemp VT-21TEDS - smokintexas
Haier HVW12ABB 12-bottle - kent1146



Fridge and Wine cooler Guide


Changes

05/22/2009 - Added a related discussions section
04/22/2009 - Added links to specific items I used in my project and underlined links to make them obvious
04/16/2008 - Added additional RH references
08/22/2007 - Added links to specific projects
08/20/2007 - Fixed some readability issues and added additional information regarding auto defrost systems in fridges with a reference.


Introduction
Many individuals look to fridges and wine coolers as a less expensive means of controlling temperature for their cigar storage. The primary driver for a temperature controlled environment for cigars is the fear of tobacco beetles. Even if the fridge is not plugged in, they make for great humidors at a fraction of the cost of a traditional cabinet. Because the technology employed within each is similar, I will refer to them collectively as fridges throughout this guide. Important differences between the two will be noted where appropriate.

What to look for
There are a wide range of fridges on the market that employ different technology for temperature control and monitoring. In addition, there are subtle differences between them that are important to understand when selecting one for your cigars.

Type
There are two major types of fridges on the market, compressor and thermoelectric cooling models. Compressor systems are the most and use the evaporation of a liquid within a closed system for cooling[1]. The thermoelectric cooling systems utilize the Peltier effect[2] and heat sinks to cool the air. Thermoelectric cooling systems are most popular within wine coolers because wine enthusiasts prefer a vibration free system (no moving parts) as vibrations may upset a wine's sediment. Thermoelectric systems also are more compact in size and require less maintenance. These units almost always contain a fan to circulate the cold air from the internal cooling fins. The fan will also assist with keeping humidity consistent throughout the interior of the fridge. If you are considering a conventional fridge for cooling, ensure you stay away from models with a built-in freezer as the temperature within the fridge will be less stable and you will have less control of the auto defrost feature.

Many cigar enthusiasts also believe thermoelectric systems are less prone to condensation then compressor fridges and as such, effect the overall humidity less. However, this statement is false for one important reason. Condensation forms when the temperature of the water vapor is greater then the surface it is interacting with. Condensation also forms when the temperature of the air is cooled, causing water molecules to collide to form droplets[3]. So assuming two fridges, one compressor and one thermoelectric, are at the same internal temperature with the same humidity level and are cooled at the same rate to the same temperature, they will both create the same amount of condensation.

Size
Fridges come in a large number of sizes and form factors. The general agreement is to buy something as big as you have space and money for. One important factor to look for is the thickness of the fridge cabinet. The thicker the wall is, the more insulated the fridge should be, which means it should hold temperature longer. This will obviously be more important for people in warmer climates.

Temperature Control
Most conventional fridges utilize an analog thermostat with a dial whereas most wine coolers utilize a digital thermometer with an external display. Due to how a thermoelectric cooling system work, the thermostat measures the difference between the ambient (external) temperature and the internal temperature. This means most of the thermoelectric thermostats are calibrated for a specific temperature. Mine was calibrated for 77 degrees F so when I set my interior temperature to 65 degrees F, it may cool to below or above that, depending on the temperature of my house. Fridges employing compressor type of systems tend to be more accurate.

In either system, you will more then likely want to setup an additional thermostat for finer control of the temperature. There are a number of models available which are prewired for a fridge as they are popular for home brewers. The thermostats work by cutting the power to the fridge when the desired temperature is reached. It is generally recommended the fridge be set on its coldest setting when using one of these thermostats to ensure the desired temperature is reached. This cycling of power to compressor systems can be hard on them as they are not meant to be cycled in such a manner. There is not enough data available to measure the impact of a thermoelectric system but it is likely less of an issue. It is important to also note that built-in digital thermostats will revert back to a default setting when the power is cycled. If possible, it is recommended that the buyer either find a fridge with a built-in analog thermostat or a digital one which defaults to a low setting.

Setting up the fridge
Once a fridge is acquired, it is important to follow a number of steps to prepare it for your cigar collection.

Plastic Odor
Some fridges contain a black plastic, mostly common within wine coolers, instead of the white for the interior. This black plastic also has a more pungent and lasting smell then those found in standard coolers or fridges. The first step is to rid the fridge of any plastic smell. I have found sunlight and fresh air to be the best means of ridding the fridge of the plastic smell. Others have had luck with using baking soda, white vinegar, and even bleach. The cooler-dor thread located at http://www.cigarpass.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13217 contains various approaches and comments that would be beneficial.

Thermostat
Assuming you acquired an addition thermostat for the fridge, now is a good time to install it. The manufactures recommend running the thermometer lead along the outside of the fridge and between the cabinet and door seal. This does not require you to drill any holes that may impact the integrity of the fridge. I personally chose to drill a hole through my fridge and sealed it using insulating foam and sealant. If you chose this method, ensure you reseal the fridge and replace any insulation that you may have impacted. Also be careful not to damage the electrical and cooling systems. The thermometer should be placed as far away as possible from the cooling system to ensure an accurate temperature reading. If possible, the thermometer should not touch the sides of the cabinet as it will influence the temperature reading. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on properly wiring the thermostat.

Humidity Control
The relative humidity[4][5] within a fridge will be more difficult to control then a non-cooled cabinet. This is attributed to the formation of condensation when the interior is cooled which drops the humidity within the fridge. As such, it is recommended that a larger then normal humidity control system be used. For example, if you are using beads, I would add at least an additional 50% over the recommended amount. You may also want to employ an active humidification system to supplement the beads but I don't feel it is required. Remember, the more your fridge cools, the more condensation will form and cause more fluctuations in the humidity.

To control condensation (auto defrost), most fridges with a freezer compartment utilize a heating element[6] whereas many wine coolers use a drainage system that evaporates the excess water using hot air from a fan. We will concentrate on fridges without a freezer compartment as they are not recommended for cigar storage. We want to keep the water instead of having it drain away so we can return it to the air. How to do this will depend on what fridge you purchase and where the drain is located. However, it is generally recommended to plug the drain and divert the water back into your beads. I personally filled the drain system with insulating foam then used a sealant to plug the drain itself. I also placed humidity sheets from Heartfelt Industries along the water collection path and on the bottom to absorb the water and release it back into the air. This seems to work alright but condensation is still forming. Make sure you do not place boxes close to the back wall or water will make its way inside them and potentially ruin your cigars.

If multiple hygrometers are available, place them at various heights within the fridge. If you notice large differences (+/-5%), you may wish to add an additional fan to help circulate the air. Many people find using battery operated fans, like those from Oust to be satisfactory.

Once you have your humidity system setup, monitor it for a few days until it aligns with the ranges you expect.

Cedar and Cigar storage

The temperature and humidity swings can cause problems for exposed cigars and it is recommended that all cigars be stored within boxes inside the fridge. I grab empty boxes from my B&M for my singles. Using a box creates a micro climate for the cigars and allows them to be shielded from momentary swings with the temperature and humidity. Assuming you do this, no other cedar is required within the fridge. Adding cedar shelving may cause more harm then good as it will restrict the circulation of air. If you chose to implement cedar shelving, route or drill holes to allow air to exchange.

Conclusion
The goal of this guide is to provide an aggregate of information about utilizing fridges and wine coolers for cigar storage. I am not an expert within the field of cigars nor refrigeration but do utilize a wine cooler to store my cigars. I spent a large amount of time reading and researching the topic and hope the information contained within this guide is beneficial.

Please feel free to send me comments, recommendations, and corrections as I hope to keep this guide up to date and accurate.

Related Discussions
Thermoelectric vs Compressor

Common Products Used
Wine Fridges
Vinotemp VT-28TEDS
EdgeStar TWR282S
Whynter SNO 28-Bottle Wine Cooler - WC28S

Thermostats
Freezer Temperature Controller

Fans
Oust Portable Fan

Spanish Cedar
Spanish Cedar Trays
Spanish Cedar Planks
Custom shelves

Hygrometers
HygroSet II Adjustable Digital Hygrometer
Caliber III Thermometer Hygrometer
Boveda One-Step Calibration

References
[1] http://www.mansfieldct.org/schools/mms/sta.../heatrefrig.htm
[2] http://www.heatsink-guide.com/peltier.htm
[3] http://www.factmonster.com/ce6/sci/A0813176.html
[4] http://science.howstuffworks.com/question651.htm
[5] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Relative_humidity
[6] http://www.appliance411.com/faq/howdefrostworks.shtml

Model Specific Projects
Thermostats
Johnson Controls A19 Thermostat Wiring - xRanger
Ranco ETC111000 Thermostat Installation - Fuscat

Wine Coolers
Vinotemp 28TEDS - AKmik
Vinotemp 28TEDS - rectifythis
Avanti 1.6cu ft. Fridge - Zach
Magic Chef - UTKhodgy
Whynter SNO WC-28S - chadth
Haier HVW12ABB - JLW
Vinotemp VT-21TEDS - smokintexas
Haier HVW12ABB 12-bottle - kent1146



#31 flamchop

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Posted 25 May 2011 - 04:26 PM

So now I'm having issues again. Does anyone else have issues with their Wine Fridge's performance after about a year? Now the NewAir Fridge I bought won't get above 56 degrees. This is the same thing that happened to my Vinotemp 28 a few years ago.

I'm not doing anything differently... if anything I would think the temperatre would stay on the high side (66) since the temperature outside is getting warmer.

I cleaned out the filter, nothing is blocking anything inside the unit. So frustrating... now I'm looking to buy my third fridge in as many years... I can't be the only one experiencing this?


Just to update my posts about the NewAir Thermoelectric 28 bottle. I would say this NewAir is worthy to be added to the list of wine fridges on the original post. I would buy it through Amazon.com shipped for under $200.

I've had it up and running for a while now, and it's keeping temps of 63-66 based on the hydro's I have in the unit. And RH has been steady around 65% with about 1.5 lbs. of beads from heartfelt.

I also had no plasic smell... it aired out in a day. I guess the real test will be to see if it's still working like this a year from now.



#32 chadth

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Posted 06 June 2011 - 11:33 AM

So now I'm having issues again. Does anyone else have issues with their Wine Fridge's performance after about a year? Now the NewAir Fridge I bought won't get above 56 degrees. This is the same thing that happened to my Vinotemp 28 a few years ago.


Are you just using the fridge's thermostat?

#33 BSchmidt1981

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Posted 04 October 2011 - 01:37 AM

So now I'm having issues again. Does anyone else have issues with their Wine Fridge's performance after about a year? Now the NewAir Fridge I bought won't get above 56 degrees. This is the same thing that happened to my Vinotemp 28 a few years ago.

I'm not doing anything differently... if anything I would think the temperatre would stay on the high side (66) since the temperature outside is getting warmer.

I cleaned out the filter, nothing is blocking anything inside the unit. So frustrating... now I'm looking to buy my third fridge in as many years... I can't be the only one experiencing this?



Just to update my posts about the NewAir Thermoelectric 28 bottle. I would say this NewAir is worthy to be added to the list of wine fridges on the original post. I would buy it through Amazon.com shipped for under $200.

I've had it up and running for a while now, and it's keeping temps of 63-66 based on the hydro's I have in the unit. And RH has been steady around 65% with about 1.5 lbs. of beads from heartfelt.

I also had no plasic smell... it aired out in a day. I guess the real test will be to see if it's still working like this a year from now.



Any update on this? Did it start working for you again? I'm thinking about picking up a NewAir within a month or so.

#34 AVB

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Posted 12 October 2011 - 03:49 PM

Home Depot has a Vissani 52-Bottle Wine Cooler online for $200 but it was listed for less at my local store.

#35 donzz

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Posted 12 October 2011 - 06:50 PM

That's a pretty good deal, but if Im going to use a Compressor cooling system a fridge of that size can be had for about 1/2 that price.
I picked up a beer fridge at circuit city before they closed for 75$


Don

#36 MrAnderson41

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Posted 08 November 2011 - 07:52 AM

I'm thinking about finally pulling the trigger and getting a winedor and am thinking about the Edgestar model. Is Edgestar a pretty safe bet as far as brands go? I see some of the reviews on Amazon are not all that great (i.e., it quits working after about a year). Has anyone had any problems with the Edgestar?

#37 cabaiguan juan

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 07:00 PM

Pulled the trigger in an Edgestar this past week. It arrived the other day, so now I need to transform it into the Wineador that it wants to be.

#38 nismo270r

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Posted 25 April 2012 - 08:16 PM

Pulled the trigger in an Edgestar this past week. It arrived the other day, so now I need to transform it into the Wineador that it wants to be.


http://www.wineadors.com/ :thumbs:

#39 flamchop

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 01:20 AM

 

So now I'm having issues again. Does anyone else have issues with their Wine Fridge's performance after about a year? Now the NewAir Fridge I bought won't get above 56 degrees. This is the same thing that happened to my Vinotemp 28 a few years ago.

I'm not doing anything differently... if anything I would think the temperatre would stay on the high side (66) since the temperature outside is getting warmer.

I cleaned out the filter, nothing is blocking anything inside the unit. So frustrating... now I'm looking to buy my third fridge in as many years... I can't be the only one experiencing this?

 

Just to update my posts about the NewAir Thermoelectric 28 bottle. I would say this NewAir is worthy to be added to the list of wine fridges on the original post. I would buy it through Amazon.com shipped for under $200.

I've had it up and running for a while now, and it's keeping temps of 63-66 based on the hydro's I have in the unit. And RH has been steady around 65% with about 1.5 lbs. of beads from heartfelt.

I also had no plasic smell... it aired out in a day. I guess the real test will be to see if it's still working like this a year from now.

 



Any update on this? Did it start working for you again? I'm thinking about picking up a NewAir within a month or so.

 

 

I know this reply is a few years late, but there is an update.  I'm now on my 2nd NewAir, and it's now crapping out the same way my 1st NewAir did, and the same way my Vinotemp did.  I don't know if it's just that the winters get too cold around here (Philly), causing the thing to overwork then break, or if they're just garbage, but I haven't been able to keep a thermoelectric wine fridge working for longer than 2 years.  I'm tired of buying them, so I'm not buying anymore.  Unfortunately my sticks will stay at about 55 degrees for the rest of the winter, and I don't know what to do about the summer.  I'm not keen on dropping hundreds more for a temp controlled humidor.  At that point, I will probably have paid more for the storage of my cigars, than I've spent on my actual cigars.  

 

Anyone have any good experience with a thermoelectric unit in a place that has harsh winters and brutal summers?  Will my sticks be okay if they're stored at 55 degrees for the foreseeable future?



#40 personal User

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Posted 26 January 2014 - 10:51 PM

 

Fridge and Wine cooler Guide

Many cigar enthusiasts also believe thermoelectric systems are less prone to condensation then compressor fridges and as such, effect the overall humidity less. However, this statement is false for one important reason. Condensation forms when the temperature of the water vapor is greater then the surface it is interacting with. Condensation also forms when the temperature of the air is cooled, causing water molecules to collide to form droplets

This statement is not necessarily false. Any difference in area and temperature of the cooling plate, along with cycle time - may well cause a difference between the two types. What is at question here is how much condensation occurs, and the rate at which it occurs. The rate of condensation and amount of condensation are not necessarily the same if the cooling surfaces are different size, shape and temperature and/or have a different rate of air flow over them.

 

 


Edited by personal User, 26 January 2014 - 11:09 PM.





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