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You Learn Something New Every Day Pass

Phil,
I forgot to post a Thanks... for letting me play and the unexpected turn of events.

:thumbs:

EDIT: DC# 0307 1790 0005 5985 1378
 
How to catch Salmon via trolling
First off, you need bait. Herring, in the green packaging, is the preferred choice of most in Alaska. It works for any species of salmon to be caught in the ocean. The herring is used whole, whereas many places outside (and some in Alaska) do a 'cut plug' style where the head is cut off. I prefer to leave it on, as it helps with the 'presentation' of the bait.

greenherring1.jpg

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You'll need a salmon/steelhead mooching rig - a twin hook system that allows you to lace a hook in or near the head and one in the tail section. I prefer the Gamakatsu Salmon/Steelhead Mooching Rig, easily bought thru Cabelas (my faaaaaaavorite store). The come out of the package sharp, and the 40# leader with the 4/0, 5/0 slip hook setup is the best. The slip hook allows you to slide the front hook up or down to correctly position the hook in the head. Otherwise, with the fixed hooks, you end up with extra leader between the hooks and that can cause problems. Anyways, you have to put a knot in the end of the mooch leader, and I always make sure there is a swivel. Salmon like to spin and not having a swivel, either on the leader or the end of your rod line, is asking for trouble.

i117555sq01.jpg

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To bait the herring, take the LAST hook on the mooch rig, and push it thru meat just forward of the tail. In one side and out the other is fine, or you can do an in and out hook to. To do that, you have to remember to push the hook first thru the forward area, then bring the hook back out the same side you went into - it takes a try or two to get it down. Otherwise it's easy to make the hook face backwards. Take the first hook on the mooch rig, and slide it until it fits to where the head is without slack between the two hooks. I like to put the hook thru the gill plate of the head, as it holds very well and won't come off easily. Ideally, the bait should swirl or circle behind the boat and NOT track straight to level following the boat, like a healthy fish would. You want it to circle or spiral behind the boat to signify a weakened, injured fish that will be an easy meal. If the bait does not do this normally, there are a couple of ways to accomplish this. One is to buy a clip that holds the head of the bait onto the line, and has a fin that sticks out and makes the bait spiral. The other is a cheap, easy way. You take a knife and make a small cut right behind the head of the bait, careful not to go very deep - just a slice. Then, take the line on the first hook by the head, and push some extra thru the eye of the hook to form a loop. now put the head of the bait into this loop, and pull out the slack, making sure it goes into the slice on the head you just made. Pull it slightly tight, and the head of the bait should turn slightly to one side. This will make it spiral nicely, and when a salmon strikes, it'll just slice thru the head and spine of the bait and not cause any problems at all.
herring.png

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Next you need a flasher. A flasher is just that - a device that flashes or reflects light that will attract fish. The theory goes that when bait fish, like herring, are in danger, the 'ball' up into a large group. Their silvery sides, en mass, will reflect light and that in turns brings in game fish. So, but putting a flasher onto your line, you are making it look like there is a group of bait fish in a ball. And dunno if that's the whole story, but I can say it works. I've tried a line out with a flasher, and one without, and the flasher equipped line will always outfish the non flasher line. Now, many people will tell you many ideas on what color of flasher is best... red, green, white, blue, silver... and to be honest, I don't really know that it makes a difference. I will tell you that I have green, red and whites on my boat and I mostly use white.

tkl_hot_spot_400.jpg

Then you hook the mooch rig with the bait onto one end of the flasher, and the line attached to your rod and reel to the other end. Now comes the fun part. Part of trolling for salmon means you have a downrigger to use. A downrigger is a device that keeps your bait at the proper depth, where the fish are. It consists of a reel of cable, a crank , a weight, and a means to attach the fishing line. All you do is take the weight and attach it to the end of the cable. There will be a release device that is attached to the weight, and the other end clamps onto your fishing line. I prefer the Scotty brand of releases, as you can change how much pressure the fish needs to pull before it releases the line. So you have the line going down from the downrigger to a heavy weight (mine are 12# and fish shaped). Then the release device goes to your fishing line. The hard part is dropping the weight, with the fishing line attached, down to the depth. It involves having the fishing reel released, and dropping the weight slowly at the same time. Trial and error is the best way to learn! Nothing is more frustrating than having the release pop loose when you see fish all over the place and they are biting! Because you have to bring the weight back up, and the fishing line, and start over. :angry:

1170.jpg

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You also need to have about 20-30 feet of line out so that the bait is that far back from the weight of the downrigger. This allows the bait to spin, acting like a wounded fish, and not get tangled in the weight. With 2 downriggers on my boat, I'll look for the fish on the depthfinder. Once I see the line of fish (they are almost always in a line at the same depth) I'll set one bait rig 5-10 feet above them, and the other 5-10 feet below. That way you cover more ground, with the swirling bait. And if one line is predominately better at getting fish, I'll close the gap between them. The boat is trolled along at anywhere from 1-4mph, usually on my small kicker motor- although the main 200horse does fine at idle. The trick is finding the fish... ask BlueDragon or PetersCreek! One second we would be on top of them and both downriggers would 'trip' or release... then a few seconds later they were no where to be seen. And once they trip, the motor goes into neutral allowing the fish to be fought and brought into the boat. All this time you're drifting, and the fish are swimming- away. So you have to find them again... and again... and again.

It'll look kinda like this-

trolling.png

When the salmon bites the bait, it puts pressure on the downrigger release, with releases the line from the downrigger cable. The rod on the boat, having been properly tensioned, sets the hook when it snaps up, and the fight is on! Tensioning the rod is another trick - too much tension and you'll trip the release accidentally. nnot enough tension and you won't have pressure on the release device and a fish can strike without the release working correctly and you'll miss the fish. You have to be careful to bring the downrigger line and weight up as soon as a fish is hooked, because if you don't, when the fish gets close to the boat it'll tangle up in the cable and bye bye fishy. And netting them can be a challange as well sometimes. But all in all, a fun day of slowly motoring around the ocean, having a few beers (not the driver of course cause you CAN get busted for drunken boat driving) and smoke some cigars. Fish optional. (they don't call it catching by the way... only fishing)

This is the end result

Cory (BlueDragon) testing these procedures out on Coho (Silver) Salmon this past August.

I expect enyone that comes up to go fishing to know this by heart so I don't have to waste time teaching them... more time for fishing and cigars!

Thanks for the pass Phil! it was a toss up between this and how to smoke salmon, but this won so that I can save time this summer...
:thumbs:
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The eagle has landed, and externally it seems to be in fine shape. I'll try to dig in tonight, post my proposed P&T's, and get this lug back on the road.....tomorrow..? I'll advise when it's actually down the road, and post something I hope at least a couple of you guys will find interesting.

Yes, I have the rest of the week off (YAY). Yes, I'll try to pull off yet another B.B.S. 24 hour "turn around"...... :thumbs:

Best Regards, guys - B.B.S.
 
Swissy said:
How to catch Salmon via trolling​
Click to expand...

Great stuff Jim! :thumbs: My brother and I used the exact same rig off Santa Barbara in '94 during the big salmon run. We eventually discovered that they were biting on live bait, sardines or anchovies, because the pick'ins were so damn good that year! Live bait, dropper loop, beer in the cooler.......bag one every time! Biggest one I landed was about 65 lbs........

This is all offset by the fact that it was pretty rare to have them running this far south wereas you have them every year. :(
 
Justin, whoever is watching, I asked Tom to hold onto the box for a few days so it doesn't idle over the holiday. It should be going out Friday or Saturday.
 
OK guys - a couple of things to do around here today but I'll get some P&T's posted and get this baby back on the road this afternoon.

Should be back with P&T's in a couple of hours - B.B.S.
 
OK guys - the package is in good shape, RH was on the mark, and the inventory is 100%. Looking very good..!! Here's my proposed P&T's..:

Take: #2 - Forbidden X Lancero
Put: #132 - Taboada "Sublime" - Humi date of 07/06

Take: #116 - Tatuaje Cojonu 2003
Put: #133 - Padron 1926 #2 Natural

Take: #122 - Outlaw LFD 2007
Put: #134 - Outlaw Pepin Garcia 2007

Take: #124 - HdM du Prince
Put: #135 - SLR Serie A REC MAY01

I missed the PO this afternoon, but I can get this off first thing in the AM if this looks cool to you guys.

Phil - thanks a million for letting me play. I'll post my info in a few minutes...... :cool:

Cheers - B.B.S.
 
BlindedByScience said:
OK guys - the package is in good shape, RH was on the mark, and the inventory is 100%. Looking very good..!! Here's my proposed P&T's..:

Take: #2 - Forbidden X Lancero
Put: #132 - Taboada "Sublime" - Humi date of 07/06

Take: #116 - Tatuaje Cojonu 2003
Put: #133 - Padron 1926 #2 Natural

Take: #122 - Outlaw LFD 2007
Put: #134 - Outlaw Pepin Garcia 2007

Take: #124 - HdM du Prince
Put: #135 - SLR Serie A REC MAY01

I missed the PO this afternoon, but I can get this off first thing in the AM if this looks cool to you guys.

Phil - thanks a million for letting me play. I'll post my info in a few minutes...... :cool:

Cheers - B.B.S.
Click to expand...

mmmmmm.......

Taboada.......
 
Home Networking, or "...why the heck should I go to the trouble of puling wire?..."

Most of us have more than one computer in our homes these days. Our home has my PC, my wife's PC, the "guest" PC upstairs, an Ethernet connection to my workbench in the garage, and my work laptop that often sits on my desk beside me. Like many homes, we have one broadband connection that we wanted to share with all the machines. While lots of folks take advantage of the great advances in wireless technology, I will tell you that all our PC's have "old fashioned" Ethernet cables connecting them all to our home network. Why go to the trouble? Lots of good reasons;

Total Cost - Most PC's and laptops have wired Ethernet ports as "standard equipment" anymore. Most now support "Gigabit" or "GbE" connectivity, which has a data rate of 1000 MBps. More and more laptops have wireless connections as standard equipment but virtually all systems have wired Ethernet ports. Wired routers and switches supporting GbE sonnections are very inexpensive.

Reliability - Wired connections don't fade in and out, or experience any interference from other wireless devices in your home.

Performance - This one is simple. If you move any large files over your network (backups, file sharing), or if you LAN game (we do), or if your work on on your PC involves any upload / download activity, you'll find a wired connection is unbeatable. Wireless LANs using 802.11b support a maximum theoretical bandwidth of 11 Mbps, roughly the same as that of the original Ethernet standard. 802.11a and 802.11g WLANs support 54 Mbps. That is approximately one-half the bandwidth of the "Fast Ethernet" 100 Mbps standard, or about 19% of the speed of gigabit Ethernet (GbE).

Furthermore, Wi-Fi performance is distance sensitive. Maximum performance is only obtainable under "perfect" connection conditions. Speed will be degraded on computers farther away from the access point or other communication endpoints. As more wireless devices utilize the WLAN more heavily, performance degrades even further.

Security - There are a number of very good ways to secure your home wireless LAN, but you have to secure it..!! I can walk out in my back yard and usually hit three or four homes that have completely open wireless connections. Worse yet, some even have file sharing enabled and it's as simple as opening up Windows Explorer to take a look at any file on their computer. Not so good. Wired Ethernet does have any such concerns.

Of course, any home network, wired or wireless, should incorporate a solid software firewall (like "Zone Alarm") and solid active virus scanning, but that's another post..... :cool:

Once you've decided to pull cable for your network, you'll need a good pair of RJ45 crimper's, some RJ45 ends, and some cable. You can buy it all at most of the better home improvement stores these days, and of course there are a ton of on line resources. You probably don't need a $100.00 pair of crimper's for a home installation, but it's like any tool - you get what you pay for. Cable and cable ends are also "get what you pay for" items. Use your own good judgment.

When it comes to cable, it can be confusing. Let me save you some confusion; just buy CAT5E and you'll be compatible with any Ethernet protocol you want to run, with one exception - 10GbE. This new protocol is not in wide use yet, and probably won't see widespread use in home applications for a long time, if ever. We have CAT5E throughout our home and it works great. Note that cable is fully downward compatible, so CAT5E is fully compliant compatible with CAT1, CAT2, CAT3, CAT4, and CAT5 standards. I have used it for everything from burglar alarms to telephone hookups. Simple choice.

Once you've got the wire pulled to where it's going to go, you have to put a plug on it. Two types of connections here; standard, and "cross over" connections. If you're connecting a computer to your router or switch, you'll need a standard connection. If you're going to hook up a PC directly to another PC, you'll need a "cross over" connection.

To install an RJ45:
1. Strip off about 2 inches of the cable sheath.
2. Untwist the pairs - don't untwist them beyond what you have exposed, the more untwisted cable you have the worse the problems you can run into.
3. Align the colored wires according to the diagrams below.
4. Trim all the wires to the same length, about 1/2" to 3/4" left exposed from the sheath.
5. Insert the wires into the RJ45 end - make sure each wire is fully inserted to the front of the RJ45 end and in the correct order. The sheath of the cable should extend into the RJ45 end by about 1/2" and will be held in place by the crimp.
6. Crimp the RJ45 end with the crimper tool
7. Verify the wires ended up the right order and that the wires extend to the front of the RJ45 end and make good contact with the metal contacts in the RJ45 end.
8. Cut the cable to length - make sure it is more than long enough for your needs. Remember, an end to end connection should not extend more than 100m (~328ft). Try to keep cables short, the longer the cable becomes the more it may affect performance, usually noticable as a gradual decrease in speed and increase in latency.
9. Repeat the above steps for the second RJ45 end.
10. If a cable tester is available, use it to verify the proper connectivity of the cable.

Straight Through Pin-Out:
straightpinout.jpg


Cross Over (Xover) Pin-Out:
xoverpinout.jpg


How to find "Pin1" for both jacks and RJ45 plugs:
rj45pinout.jpg


....hope this helps you guys, and maybe even you "learned something new"..... :cool:

The very Best Regards - B.B.S.
 
OK gentlemen - the ball is back in play:

0307 0020 0003 2886 5408

Thanks again for letting me play along - :thumbs:

Best Regards - B.B.S.
 
I've got a question for everybody since I don't know what the value on the Taboada is.

Would a PAN millenium be a fair put for it?
 
I'm no expert, but I would say thats more than a fair trade eh Philly?
 
I paid $30-35.00 for the Taboada, but of course you have to figure rarity, etc. in the equation as well.

Sounds like a fair trade to me but of course the final authority is our pass host. He's the guy that has to make the call......... :cool:

Enjoy, gentlemen - B.B.S.

Edited: Guys - I got to thinking and a went back and looked at what I paid for these. Best I can figure was in the $30-35.00 range. Apologies extended; It was not my intention to mislead anyone.
 
Holy mother, I guess I'm lucky I got mine for the price I did. Very generous put btw BBS.
 
I am fine with it personally. If anyone thinks it isn't a good trade they are free to voice their opinion but I am inclined to give it the OK
 
Martin2D said:
Holy mother, I guess I'm lucky I got mine for the price I did. Very generous put btw BBS.
Click to expand...
....I've never had a ForbiddenX, let alone a lancero in a coffin. I will wait for a very special time to smoke this baby. Given the relative scarcity of ForbiddenX's, it seemed like the right thing to do.... :cool:

Enjoy, guys - B.B.S.

Edited - see my note above. My records show $30-35.00 is more like it. My apologies.....B.B.S.
 
Guys, it appears that Chris will be unavailable to receive the pass over the next couple of weeks (read: baby coming SOON) so Justin will be the last player in the pass. Once he sends it off I am going to start the final contest of the pass.
 
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