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Unattended Cigar Storage

Wildcard said:
It's possible, though the timer would be a pain in the butt unless ran through a computer. And one power failure at any time and it's toast. Plus, something like that couldn't be guaranteed reliable, and I cringe at the thought of all those cigars having the lid left up on 'em.

So really I've given up this inane quest. Too many variables, too much at stake.
Good ol Tim Taylor has those problems addressed. First on the timer. You have a timer with a battery backup. It keeps the time accurate and the program set, just like in set back thermostats.

I have the lid being stuck in the open position problem solved also, but it changes the design quit a bit, but actually makes it much easier to build.

1. Mount a small piece of sheet metal horizontally to the lid on the front edge so it extends about 2 inch past the side. Install a small solenoid with a 2 inch stroke (often used in washing machines or security doors) on the front of the cooler just below the extended piece of metal. This is a normally open solenoid (no electrical contact is the normal position).

2. When the timer (which is opperated on 115 with a battery backup) signals for the cooler to open, it sends 115v to the solenoid. The plunger moves up hiiting the extended piece of metal which is attached to the lid. The plunger extends the 2 inches, which raises the lid 2 inches. This will stay open as long as the timer sends power. When time is up, the solenoid plunger is released and gravity pulls the plunger and thus the lid down, or if power goes out the same sequence happens.

You may want to weight the lid a bit, to keep the lid closed tightly, but you may need a stronger solenoid.

One note, when you drill the holes for mounting, just go in half way.

Again, I wish my Uncle Rube was around so I could check with him. For those not familar with him, or not quite sure if I am serious or not, I suggest you click on this link.

http://www.rube-goldberg.com/html/tee%20up...golf%20ball.htm

Enjoy
 
Well that sounds like one hell of a great timing device. Where's a guy to get something that not only keeps time, but has a switch that activates for a variable amount of time?

Unless it kept two times, one to switch power on, and one to switch it off, but I've not encountered anything like that either.
 
As I told you in chat, just send them to me and I'll put them in my humi for you. When you want them back drop me a line and a few ducats and I'll return them. A "good" (your choice) cigar a month will be the storage fee. :D
 
I could always impose on someone, but I'm just having fun with the ideas. Where there's a will, there's a way, I suppose.
 
Wildcard said:
Well that sounds like one hell of a great timing device. Where's a guy to get something that not only keeps time, but has a switch that activates for a variable amount of time?

Unless it kept two times, one to switch power on, and one to switch it off, but I've not encountered anything like that either.
All timing devises work like that (power on power off). Power is supplied to the timer constantly, and an interal switch opens and closes (thus sending power to the item to be activated for a specific time).

I just found a daily timer very similar to a timer you plug into the wall to turn on and off your lights at specific times.

Said timer (Grainger model 5a690, Intermatic # DT17C, aprox $30) plugs into 115v wall socket, plug the solenoid into the receptical on the timer. This timer is digital and has a battery back up to keep the program you set. I could not find a weekly timer, this one repeats the same program every 24 hours. Minimum on time is 1 minute, so you can program to open the lid 1 minute or more every day (or more if you want, there are up to 14 max on / off operations a day). This timer has a 15 amp load rateing, so it will power as big a solenoid as you need.

So the sequence goes like this.
Timer in wall is set to open lid at 10:00am for 1 minute. At 10:00am 115v power is sent to solenoid from the timer relay inside the timer and the solenoid plunger moves up and hits the metal strip and opens lid for 1 minute. When timer cycle is over, power from timer to solenoid is disconected by the relay inside the timer, and the solenoid is turned off and the plunger and thus the lid falls due to gravity. Should power go off in the building, the program is kept by backup battery inside timer. When power is returned, the daily cycle is returned. This same program is repeated the next day.

This company may make a 7 day model, where you can program timer to cycle only once a week.

I sort of made spoof of this in other posts, but this really can work if you REALLY want to do it. I love doing problems like this, it reminds me of the good part of my former job, solving problems such as this.

The only problem in this part of the unattended coolidor is the electrical wiring of the solenoid. The timer just plugs in wall and the item to be timed just plugs into the timer; but the solenoid is normally not an "exposed" item, and they are usually just hard wired (wing nuts connecting the wire.) Having an exposed connection like that may be against building codes. You may need to mount the solenoid inside a electical box (junction box) and use Romex wire to the timer.

But if you have the water problem solved, Im sure this mechanical system will work dependably. I guess nothing is fool proof. What if the solenoid burns out? What if a mouse chews the Romex and cuts power to the solenoid? What if the mouse knocks the timer out of the wall socket?

Oh well, like I said, I like doing problems like this. Hope it helps.

PS...
Gosh, now I know why I end up spening a couple hours on this board every day, I do tend to go on.. :)
 
It's quite doable, if the right timer was available. But another thing I'd be concerned about is that even weighted, the lid might not securely shut when dropped from two inches.

Instead of said solenoid, a couple of Radio Shack motors would probably due the trick, but the timer would have to have two time sets, one to raise and one to lower. And that would basically take care of the fire hazard as well.

But if said timer does infact run the voltage for one minute, that'd be an excessive amount of time to raise/lower the lid, so I'd have to rig up a trip from the gear to keep from breaking the motors/belts/gearing after the motor accomplished its job and continued to spin.

Hmm... Maybe I'll bust out AutoCAD later tonight. :D
 
Wildcard said:
It's quite doable, if the right timer was available. But another thing I'd be concerned about is that even weighted, the lid might not securely shut when dropped from two inches.
The lid is on a hinge, so even without a weight, how can it not close? Without power, the soleoind plunger is very loose (I used to sell em) and free to fall and then nothing else is there to hold the lid up. It doesnt matter if its 2 inchs or 2 feet, you can't defeat gravity.

So unless there is an obstruction, or the hinges stick (grease em up), the lid will fall without a weight. The added weight I would put on the lid, near the point of the overhanging bar, is only there to make a tighter seal.

The push type solenoid I found in my book has 6 lbs of push at a 1 inch stroke. I am sure there are bigger strokes and force. Just the weight of the lid, will close it and maybe a couple lbs will keep the lid closed tightly enough.

Using a solenoid will be easier than using 2 motors (or 1 multdirctional motor), plus it uses as simple normally open timer.

Gravity is the engineer's friend. :)
 
Most coolers create a seal, and thus require an extra little "push", and dropping the lid from two feet will only rest the lid above it, at least with mine.
 
Wildcard said:
Most coolers create a seal, and thus require an extra little "push", and dropping the lid from two feet will only rest the lid above it, at least with mine.
Ah, Ok. I think the question is how tight the seal is. I dont have a cooler, but now that I think about the ones Ive seen, they do have a "rim" and it sort of snaps/snugs on maybe?

I still think the two way motorized version of this hypothetical problem is too complicated. So, here is my last possible suggestion. Hopefully this will solve the closing problem.

How about making the piece of metal that extends horizontally from the lid another couple of inches. At the end of the piece of metal hang a string with a 5 lb weight on it. The solenoid could still lift the lid with the hanging weight, but when the solenoid is released, the 5 lb weight should pull the lid down tight enough.

Ok, who is going to test this out? Maybe super glue a piece of metal on the lid and see if the 5 lbs hanging from it will pull it closed.

Boy, bet the original poster didnt expect all this info. :) And all this sillyness
 
Actually, that has a much better chance of sealing the lid shut than weighting the top of it. Hmm...

And I was the original poster, and this is the sort of thing I was hoping for. :D
 
Wildcard said:
"If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough." - Mario Andretti
I like your quote wild. Mario has always been my favorite race driver. Im giving away my age, but I used to go to the indy races in the mid 60's at The Milwaukee Mile, and Mario won alot there. I remember one year (67 maybe) the year Andy Granatelli had the turbin powered cars; that was sure cool seeing them go past with no noise. But, if memory serves me right, the turbin gave out with a few laps left and Mario won. Two years later, driving for Andy G., Mario won his only Indy 500.


Let us know if you try the inattended coolidor prototype.
 
I do intend to do it, probably sometime this July. I'll be sure to do a full write up with pics as well.

That being said, as far as circulation and clean air goes, I think I'm going to leave the drainplug open, but plug it with a rubber cork that has an eighth inch diameter hole drilled through it. I remember seeing those doing Chem labs a couple years back, I imagine that would be sufficient airflow in itself, because I've also decided on going the Cigar Oasis Plus route, and modifying the cartridge to either a much larger capacity, or to take liquid in as it's used, via a waterbalance setup.
 
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