Guns

Scap said:
What are you reloading?
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Currently my project is .223. I am working through...well...a bunch. I've got around 1975 reloaded now, and probably 10x that to go. This is on a Dillon 550B. My XL750 is currently set up for 308, but I had a problem with the magazine primer tube for lg primers. Just got the replacements saturday but havent replaced it yet. Once thats replaced and running I've got maybe 300 or so 308's for reload.

Eventually, .45's, although I havent priced that out yet to see how feasible that is to start yet. (lg pistol primers are just silly expensive yet). 9's I've got priced out to reload at around .22 cents each. So not really a 'savings' to do those yet, other than the satisfaction of doing it....and the use of the reloads for target/drill/plinking and saving factory for SHTF.

At *some* point, 7mm rem mag (maybe 50 - but I will tailor those for extreme precision), then 45-70. (I need to find dies for that one)

I'm really interested in hearing others input/experiences with different powders and bullets. And of course....my 'book' is open, my 'pencils' are sharpened, my eyes and ears are open, and I am ready to absorb any info that gets shared. :)
 
I reload a bunch of stuff, almost as fun as shooting, at least for me.

Savings, lol, not sure about that. But if I ever do load all my components I’ll definitely have saved a bunch. I have six, 5-gallon buckets of once-fired Lake City 5.56 brass, for instance. Plus the bullets, powder, primers, to load them.
 
JCinPA said:
I reload a bunch of stuff, almost as fun as shooting, at least for me.

Savings, lol, not sure about that. But if I ever do load all my components I’ll definitely have saved a bunch. I have six, 5-gallon buckets of once-fired Lake City 5.56 brass, for instance. Plus the bullets, powder, primers, to load them.
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Ooooo....

You have a couple more than me to load up. :) heh heh

I have a lot of 556 brass. I'm just reloading them with 223 for now. I do not have any real desire to get into annealing the brass for 556. (maybe you dont have to do that, but the material I have watched/read/heard about says its a thing)
 
You’re overthinking it. Annealing is a process needed only if you reload a case several times which causes the brass to become brittle. You can reload a case several times before annealing is needed. Precision shooters (the real long range guys, like F Class competitors) anneal as an aid to consistency. I’ve never done it.

The once-fired Lake City brass is fine to reload without annealing. With the number of cases I have (a lifetime supply for me, my son, and my grandson … at least), I likely won’t bother collecting the brass from my reloads, leaving it for my club to sell.

You don’t need to worry about annealing, probably ever. If you do it will likely be because you got into F Class competition. ARFCOM threads indicate you are likely fine reloading LC brass after full resizing at least three times. You could probably do more, but at some point you’ll see neck cracks, but many say they get 5-6 out of it without annealing. If I was keeping my Lake City brass, I’d reload it 3X then toss it. I’d rather get more once-fired brass than fiddle with annealing. Which either requires expensive equipment or truly Rube Goldberg processes.

If you are going to shoot a LOT of 5.56 one thing you might look into for speed is an electric trimmer, but that’s about it. Don’t overthink 5.56 reloading. And the sites like Ammosmith are very, very OCD in their approach. You should be safe, and you’ll learn a lot there. But reloading is not rocket science.
 
JCinPA said:
You’re overthinking it. Annealing is a process needed only if you reload a case several times which causes the brass to become brittle. You can reload a case several times before annealing is needed. Precision shooters (the real long range guys, like F Class competitors) anneal as an aid to consistency. I’ve never done it.

The once-fired Lake City brass is fine to reload without annealing. With the number of cases I have (a lifetime supply for me, my son, and my grandson … at least), I likely won’t bother collecting the brass from my reloads, leaving it for my club to sell.

You don’t need to worry about annealing, probably ever. If you do it will likely be because you got into F Class competition. ARFCOM threads indicate you are likely fine reloading LC brass after full resizing at least three times. You could probably do more, but at some point you’ll see neck cracks, but many say they get 5-6 out of it without annealing. If I was keeping my Lake City brass, I’d reload it 3X then toss it. I’d rather get more once-fired brass than fiddle with annealing. Which either requires expensive equipment or truly Rube Goldberg processes.

If you are going to shoot a LOT of 5.56 one thing you might look into for speed is an electric trimmer, but that’s about it. Don’t overthink 5.56 reloading. And the sites like Ammosmith are very, very OCD in their approach. You should be safe, and you’ll learn a lot there. But reloading is not rocket science.
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Very interesting. Thats the first time I've heard something like that about annealing. Due to the things I *had* heard, I havent looked into 556 that much. I cant say I remember seeing powder loads for 556, but I'll look into it and see what it would be like.

As for the trimming. Where does that come into play? What purpose does it serve?
 
DomnioMaestro said:
Very interesting. Thats the first time I've heard something like that about annealing. Due to the things I *had* heard, I havent looked into 556 that much. I cant say I remember seeing powder loads for 556, but I'll look into it and see what it would be like.

As for the trimming. Where does that come into play? What purpose does it serve?
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When you fire a round, the case expands to fit the chamber, and that includes longitudinally--it stretches. When you resize, you bring the exterior dimensions of the case back to spec so it will chamber again. If you did not resize you would have problems with rounds chambering reliably.

A case trimmer uses a pilot that controls depth, and a cutter that trims the length of the case. Then you need to chamfer the edges of the case neck so the bullet will seat. Here are some case trimmers.

thegunzone.com

{The 8} Best Case Trimmers on the Market in 2025 [June Tested]

Find The Top 8 Case Trimmers In 2025! June Testing Reveals The Best Models.
thegunzone.com thegunzone.com

Mine is electric, and it trims and chamfers in one step, and indexes off the shoulder. I did that because I was planning on loading many thousands of 5.56 rounds, it's not necessary. You can probably reload twice before trimming. My process was.

Resize once-fired LC brass and reload.
Resize and trim after that and reload again.
Reload one more time, then I'd toss it. But you could reload one more time and never worry about annealing.

Reloading too many times can lead to other problems other than split necks, like case/head separation, which you've probably read about. That's why I would, at most, use my once-fired brass for three reloads. I had a high degree of confidence that my brass would be safe at that point. I would begin to worry about it after that. Trying to reload more to save money began to have a safety tradeoff, IMO, and I didn't try to squeeze the nickel until the buffalo shit, if you know what I mean.

For low volume use, the Lee or the Lyman are the way to go. If you are going to do thousands and thousands of rounds, the Frankford Arsenal machine is the bees' knees.
 
Sorry, rereading this later I realized I wasn’t clear. You can full length resize to knock the shoulder back, but the leading edge of the case could have stretched to the point that it, also, interfered with rechambering. The case headspaces on the case shoulder in the chamber. But the overall case length is still important.

If I’ve confused you at all (and I apologize) PM me and I’ll chat with you. There are a lot of things you may read in the Internet that people say are important when they’re not. And a lot of folks say ignore this when it’s important.

You’ve prolly picked up on my posts I’m kinda anal retentive (and OCD). I will say I’m both about reloading ammunition. PM me with your digits and I’d be happy to chat with you on this.

I love reloading but would hate to steer someone in an unsafe direction.

You should not reload 5.56 rounds (a tactical use round) to the point you need to anneal. That’s crazy. But you should know about case trimming. If that makes sense.

If you want to get into $6-7,000 rifles and F-Class competition, I’ll hook you up with buddies who are way more knowledgeable than I am on that.

If you want to reload your 5.56 for your AR,

I’m your huckleberry. 🤣
 
I think @lucasbuck gets this. The 5.56 round is one you should be worrying about reliability when loaded to high pressures and that means not going for maximum # of reloads. When reloading for F-Class shooting you do.

And my buddy weighs and sorts his brass, trims his necks, weighs each charge.

That’s not the 5.56 defensive reloading game. Completely different endeavors.
 
I haven’t reloaded in years but I did make countless thousands of rounds way back when. Was once obsessed with sub MOA shooting. I did all that wacky weighing, measuring etc etc. It was one helluva lot of fun. Me and my best friend at the time used to load to ridiculous over pressure. We felt the need for speed. One of our favorites was the 7mm Mag. We both had cheapie old Remington 700 bolt actions. We got well in excess of 4000fps with 100 grain bullets and close to 1/2 MOA if you can believe it. Yes we were dumb kids and lucky we didn’t blow up those guns and many others. I could tell you stories that you may never believe but all true. Good times!
 
Ok. More time tonight. :)

So, Trimming.

The brass I've been reloading so far is once fired PMC brass. So I looked at the arsenal model you linked above. Actually all eight of those listed in that article. None of the information there really explains how you know you need to trim in the first place. So what is that secret? I guess I could micrometer each case, but that seems fairly time consuming Secondly, how do you know to not trim too much?

Reloading 556 is on my 'might do one day' list. I'm reloading these as 223 at this point, with the mindset that these reloads will be the drilling/short-distance training/ and probably most of the time, plinking. So long as they keep within a 2-3 inch group or at least *on* the 4 inch steel plate at 25 to 50 yards, I'll be happy. And the same goes for the 308's that I have. I'm not looking for pinpoint accuracy out of these. These wont be distance rounds, although so long as they are 'reasonable' at 100 yards, I'll be happy.

Now when I get to the point of reloading my 7mm rem mag, thats a different story. Then I will be looking for those .5 inch groups.

9's I'll get to one day. While I do like the fact that I can tailor rounds with extreme specificity is great. But while that is a 'pro', a 'con is that I'm not a rich guy. So pennies count. And with pricing as it is now, I can buy factory target rounds for the same or slightly less than I can reload them for.

That all said: Once I get through much more reading, and experience reloading, I'll reload my own defensive ammo.

45's are something I'd like to reload for target/plinking. I love my 45 for pew pew therapy. But its too heavy and too big for concealed carry. (especially in the summertime) A case of 45s is literally double what a case of 9's are right now. So yeah.....those I want to reload for target/plinking.
 
DomnioMaestro said:
Ok. More time tonight. :)

So, Trimming.

The brass I've been reloading so far is once fired PMC brass. So I looked at the arsenal model you linked above. Actually all eight of those listed in that article. None of the information there really explains how you know you need to trim in the first place. So what is that secret? I guess I could micrometer each case, but that seems fairly time consuming Secondly, how do you know to not trim too much?
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You just set the case trimmer up once to the desired length of your brass, it hard stops at that length every time. Just stick your brass in, give it a whirl, and it'll trim if needed.
 
You don’t need to measure each case, just a representative sample. And they don’t have to be exactly to spec, just within the spec. Frankly, I just assume once-fired LC brass does not need trimming, I only measure after I reload and fire it once. But this will let you quickly gauge any case, no micrometer needed.

1751114623484.jpeg

If you have once-fired LC brass, just clean and reload it. After that if you decide to trim, you just trim all of them don’t bother measuring them. As has been mentioned they all have pilots or are set up to trim to the same length, so no measuring needed once you get set up.

By the way, the case gauges that look like this …

1751114798019.jpeg

Are not the right tool for case length. These measure from the shoulder to determine if a case will chamber, you could still have over-length cases and this won’t catch that. Those tools are strictly for precision shooters with bolt guns. You want to push the shoulder back only 1 or 2 thousandths both to prevent overworking the brass and to provide tight chambering. You should check every round in one of these if that’s what you’re doing.

But if you’re reloading for a semi-automatic, you push the shoulder back more, to facilitate reliable function, you just full-length resize every case and don’t bother with the that type of case gauge.

Pistol is much simpler, you don’t need all this crap, no need to measure as closely, etc. You just want a consistent powder charge to bring down standard deviation in velocity, none of the case measuring and weighing nonsense required. Like you, I don’t and won’t reload 9mm. Ever. It’s too cheap. It’s not JUST about saving a few pennies, it’s about your time, also, and unless you are a competitor shooting several thousand rounds a month (some do!) reloading 9mm—the juice isn’t worth the squeeze, IMO. My friends who are competitor shooters invest much more in reloading equipment including case feeders to feed their habit. Then the pennies add up, but their speed increases to the point that after the initial investment it makes sense for them to reload. I just look for sales and buy by the case for 9mm stuff. And I don’t reload my defensive ammo*. I buy commercial because it is much more consistent than I can remanufacture. I don’t shoot much of it.

Now .45 can make sense to reload, the pennies are bigger. For 5.56 you can get by with basic equipment but I suggest that if you are going for military pressures (safe if you know what you’re doing) I would suggest reloading Lake City brass a maximum of 3X then toss. Others are not that cautious and will reload until they start to see cracked necks or signs of imminent case head separation, but I don’t push it. I’ll reload/shoot it once, trim them all after that, then reload twice more (no trimming again) then toss the brass.

I can see you’re fascinated with this, but unless you have a very accurate bolt gun (no need for a $6,000 rifle, I have an accurized Savage heavy barrel .308 that consistently shoots well under 1/2 MOA) I would not worry about precision loading until you get facile with the whole process and are therefore safe with it. Then play around. I reload .308 that shoots as well as Federal Gold Medal match rounds and that save some real money. Have not priced it recently, but I wouldn’t be surprised if GMM runs $1.25 a round and I know I can match it for about 50 cents.

* Whether you should shoot reloads defensively is, if not the most hotly debated issue on the gunny forums, def in the top 3. I think that whole conversation is not worth having, and despite all the armchair lawyers suggesting it’s a bad idea (and real lawyers, to be fair), over the decades I’ve followed this debate, I have never seen any case cited that hinged on using reloads. And that’s not because I have not found one, it’s because there isn’t one. The guys who want to argue shooting reloads defensively is insane want to prove themselves so badly, if there was a case, we’d all know it. Your defense is going to revolve solely on the justification of the shoot. Probably not good to engrave Punisher logos into your guns or engrave them with “Kill ‘em all, let God sort ‘em out” (some idiots do 🙄), but save for that idiocy, equipment or ammo won’t be a deciding factor in a shooting defense case. I’m not saying it doesn’t matter, I’m saying, categorically, it won’t be the single thing that the case hinges on. If the guy needed shooting, he needed shooting and you’re likely OK (juries in NYC or San Franshitshow excepted). If the guy did not need shooting, you are screwed, everywhere.

I don’t reload defensive ammo, though, simply because Hornady, Federal, or Remington are going to be so much more consistent, I just buy it.
 
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DomnioMaestro said:
Ok. More time tonight. :)

So, Trimming.

The brass I've been reloading so far is once fired PMC brass. So I looked at the arsenal model you linked above. Actually all eight of those listed in that article. None of the information there really explains how you know you need to trim in the first place. So what is that secret? I guess I could micrometer each case, but that seems fairly time consuming Secondly, how do you know to not trim too much?

Reloading 556 is on my 'might do one day' list. I'm reloading these as 223 at this point, with the mindset that these reloads will be the drilling/short-distance training/ and probably most of the time, plinking. So long as they keep within a 2-3 inch group or at least *on* the 4 inch steel plate at 25 to 50 yards, I'll be happy. And the same goes for the 308's that I have. I'm not looking for pinpoint accuracy out of these. These wont be distance rounds, although so long as they are 'reasonable' at 100 yards, I'll be happy.

Now when I get to the point of reloading my 7mm rem mag, thats a different story. Then I will be looking for those .5 inch groups.

9's I'll get to one day. While I do like the fact that I can tailor rounds with extreme specificity is great. But while that is a 'pro', a 'con is that I'm not a rich guy. So pennies count. And with pricing as it is now, I can buy factory target rounds for the same or slightly less than I can reload them for.

That all said: Once I get through much more reading, and experience reloading, I'll reload my own defensive ammo.

45's are something I'd like to reload for target/plinking. I love my 45 for pew pew therapy. But its too heavy and too big for concealed carry. (especially in the summertime) A case of 45s is literally double what a case of 9's are right now. So yeah.....those I want to reload for target/plinking.
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Careful interchanging or making one into the other with 5.56 and .223
The brass has different volumes and they run at different pressures.

Trimming can be hand checked using the reloading manual's recommended min/max trim lengths or there's probably a go/no-go gauge available for quick sorting.
 
Wow, @Scap raises a great point I should have earlier. Both types have identical exterior dimensions, but the 5.56 brass has thicker case walls to handle higher pressures. I've mentioned Lake City only here, simply because they provide a lot of military ammo and the military sells their brass, they don't reload, so there is a lot of it available. But Winchester 5.56 brass is just as good, and most people agree that any brass your find listed as 5.56 NATO is probably just fine for AR-15 use at military pressures. If a case is stamped Rem .223 do not use in AR-15 at higher pressures. Most of the 5.56 stuff is stamped with the NATO symbol on the base. It's a little circle with a cross inside it, like below

1751119026809.png

Another important thing I forgot to mention is that once-fired military brass will have been crimped -- see the ring around the primer in the shot above? It prevents the primer from backing out from the violent reciprocating forces in belt-fed machine guns. You have to remove that before reloading or you won't get a new prime to seat. Fortunately this need only be done once. There are reamers with cut the crimp back, but I prefer to swage it (push it out of the way with a mandrel without removing any metal) and there is no better tool for this than the Dillon Super Swage.

www.dillonprecision.com

Super Swage 600

Dillon Super Swage 600 from Dillon Precision on Vimeo. Until now, reusing military brass, with its crimped primer pockets, has been a tedious task. The Dillon solution is a remarkably simple device that bolts to your bench and allows you to swage the primer pockets with speed and ease. The case...
www.dillonprecision.com www.dillonprecision.com

1751119232914.png

Dang, they got spendy, mine was about $79 IIRC, correctly decades ago, now they run about $150. You can search for cheaper tools, but this is the cadillac for this purpose. See it in use here.


I'm fixing to reload 1,000 5.56 in a couple weeks. My process is to

1. Count out 1,000 cases
2. Deprime - I do this with just a Lee deprimer die, no resizing because the primer is tight in a crimped case and you need a sturdier pin to get it out first time. I do this on a single stage press.
3. Clean (steel pin tumbler)
4. Swage with the Dillon tool

At this point, I'm done with initial prep, I don't bother measuring case length on once-fired brass. Now I move to my Lee Classic Cast Turret press. I don't have a true progressive, but the turret works well for me and is fairly fast.

1. Lube (10% lanolin 90% 91% strength alcohol in a spray bottle)
2. Resize/prime, bell and charge, bullet seat, Lee factory crimp die.

That's 4 pulls of the handle per round but once you get in the rhythm it goes pretty quick. If I reload that brass again, no swaging is needed, but I'll check about 1 in 20 cases and if all are within length spec I let it go. If a meaningful number are over or even close to the long spec, I'll trim the lot all at once. Then that step should never have to be done again. Then lube and run through the Turret press.
 
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Ok. Heh heh. Ifs hard to keep track of all the info here. But, I opened a separate window on my second monitor, and will be replying in order, from there.

ChuckJr:
In all of the equipment my dad had, I havent seen a case trimmer. Granted, 99.5% of the shells he reloaded were pistol calibers, and I am guessing the 223's that he reloaded were once fired (by him). To be fair, I cant help but feel terrible/horrible, because I didnt even know he shot his 223. His hunting rifle was his 270. Which I havent found dies for, so I'm guessing he never reloaded that caliber. He and I reloaded shotgun shells for trap. We shot that every weekend for several years. I just never knew he was reloading/shooting anything else. Ugh.
Anyway, to the reply: In the video's I've watched of the automatic case prep machines, I havent found where you 'set'' a depth, and it only goes to that level.
With that said, I honestly havent spent much of my watching/learning time with trimming tutorials. So as an example, the one that JC linked above. It doesnt 'look' like there is a depth setting or at least not one I have seen. I'll dig into it and see if I can find other videos, but I welcome any knowledge.

JCinPA:
The Lyman gauge in your response. I do have one of those that has most of the major rifle calibers on it. And in the 'handful' of cases I have checked, they all fit though without any problems. But like you, I have buckets of spent brass. 90% of it is single fired. the other 10% (ok, maybe its 85/15) is unknown, and its mixed in with the cases I know are single fired.

I do have what is probably a very rookie question. So before I got the presses all set up, and actually dove headlong into this, I deprimed by hand, 80% of the 223/556 brass. (My son did the rest by hand). I then swaged (which at the time I thought was an annoying and time consuming waste of time and energy), with the dillon super swager all of the 223/556 brass. (couldnt pull my son away from CoD or Siege 6). But....I did catch up on and listen to a lot of poscasts....
So then after getting the presses all set up and figuring out the dies, I found that the decapping and resizing die (oh...the very unchristian words utter from my mouth when I found it decapped (which I called deprimed above) during the press actuation), well....resized the cases.

So the question (finally), is: Does the decapping/resizing die not "squish" (I dont know what other term to use) or stretch the cases to the appropriate length? I used a hi-res bore-cam to look inside (as far as I could go), the resizing die, and could see it was shaped like a case.

Defensive ammo: While I did mention reloading that at some point, I am nowhere near that point yet. It just seemed like a natural thing or progression, to do. Factory defensive ammo (and I have tested almost all of them for my daily carry), has always been reliable.

Fascinated: Heh. Thats a nice adjective. :) What started off as a discussion with my son has bloomed into this....obsession? Mostly just my own stubbornness. I am a July baby. Which....almost without exception, we are either 0 or 100. heh heh I'm not one of those astrology nuts. But in the things I have seen or read....almost all of it fits, for who and what I am.

Scap/JCinPA:
Where I started with these reloads after consulting with a bunch of people locally and the powder manufacturer support: I decided *NOT* to reload the 556 rounds as 556. That would be 26.4 grains of powder with a 55 grain FMJ BT. (62 was stated to be preferred). Instead, I am running 24.5 grains with the 55gr fmj bt, as recommended for 223.
My thoughts on this (along with the discussions I've had with people reloading), are my ar's that are chambered in 556 and one in 223 wylde *should* not have any problems with that load.
ALMOST all of the brass I have is spent 556.

JCinPA:
I had gotten a spray bottle of lube when I picked up the xl750. It was getting low, so I order and just got on saturday a bottle of liquid lanolin. Heh heh. 91% alcohol was picked up at the store today. Havent mixed it yet, but that will happen soon.
I did come up with a system for spraying the brass so that the lube didnt get down into the cases. (or at least less of it). I was concerned that when I tested the powder weights, the little bit that might get stuck inside the cases would add more powder than I wanted. I have been checking every 5 to 7 cases.

---

Please keep the info coming! :)
 
Get a chronograph for the loads you're running outside the norm.
Some really good Doppler Effect based units are out now.

Also, make sure you're bolt carrier isn't slamming into the end of the buffer tube.
 
If you have a de capping/resizing die, that is designed to do both. If I did not have crimped primers in the military brass, I’d use that, and I do for other rounds.

When I said recapping die, I have a Lee die that only decamps, it does not resize the case. It has a heavier pin in it to drive out primers that have been crimped. I described the rest of the process. If swaging or cutting the crimp has already been done, I would just use a “normal” decapping/resizing die. Hope that is clear and not muddying up the waters.

All the admonitions about not loading to military pressures are legal ass-covering, “probably shouldn’t do that, you’ll blow your face off!” Then if you stupidly blow your face off, they’re covered. But there is no reason commercials military rounds are safe or your rounds any less safe that commercial rounds in a military chamber in military brass. I mean we’re talking physics here, right?

That assumes, of course, you know what you are doing, and you are careful in your procedures. I am, and I’ve been reloading for decades. And I’m a bit OCD. Frankly (I can’t give legal advice /disclaimer), I’d ignore all the crap you hear about not reloading to military pressures, it’s just noise.

What Scap said is critical, though, you need a good chrono to be safely doing this. But once you test a load thoroughly and find it safe, continue using it with confidence.
 
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DomnioMaestro said:
ChuckJr:
In all of the equipment my dad had, I havent seen a case trimmer. Granted, 99.5% of the shells he reloaded were pistol calibers, and I am guessing the 223's that he reloaded were once fired (by him). To be fair, I cant help but feel terrible/horrible, because I didnt even know he shot his 223. His hunting rifle was his 270. Which I havent found dies for, so I'm guessing he never reloaded that caliber. He and I reloaded shotgun shells for trap. We shot that every weekend for several years. I just never knew he was reloading/shooting anything else. Ugh.
Anyway, to the reply: In the video's I've watched of the automatic case prep machines, I havent found where you 'set'' a depth, and it only goes to that level.
With that said, I honestly havent spent much of my watching/learning time with trimming tutorials. So as an example, the one that JC linked above. It doesnt 'look' like there is a depth setting or at least not one I have seen. I'll dig into it and see if I can find other videos, but I welcome any knowledge.
Click to expand...
Here's a vid on the RCBS. It has stop rings that set the length. You have to get the length established, lock the rings down, and trim away. It's a good idea to check the length periodically with calipers and make any small adjustments, but no need to measure every case before - if it's the correct length, it won't get cut and if it's too long it'll get trimmed. It's been a long, long time since I've reloaded rifle shells and I couldn't even find my trimmer. I found my dad's, it's an RCBS like in the vid. That might have been what I used (that trimmer might have been mine and he borrowed it, he only ever reloaded .223 - he was mostly a pistol reloader), I don't remember. But through the fog of time I did remember that it was basically just a boring repetitive job without the need for measuring every case.

 
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