Picnic Table Construction Question

[JHolmes763]

So I like the design of the picnic table shown in the first picture at this link.

http://www.instructables.com/id/picnic-table-1/

I've got an aluminum table frame that you'd normally just attached 6-8 ft long, 10-12 inch wide boards to (like this). One each for the seats and three or four on top. I wanted a little different design, however, and it led me to the above picture.

I think overall, the design would still work on a metal frame. If anyone thinks contrary, I welcome your feedback.

The problem I'm envisioning is that end piece on the top & seats popping off if it isn't connected properly. Like when the table is lifted to be moved or someone sits right on the end of the seat. What is the best way to connect that, given the design does not have that end piece connected to all of the other pieces in the middle of the "frame"? I have a new pocket hole jig that I got for fathers day. Would those underneath and glue be enough, do you think? I think that'd be more visually appealing than long screws right into the 45-degree frame, visible from the outside.

Maybe it'd be smarter to just build a conventional picnic table with the frame and build this one according to design?

Any thoughts are welcome. Thanks.

-John

 

[Pugman1943]

No help John, but I have to say that is a sweet looking table

 

[Setharsis]

What about using a plate connector for each corner on the undersides?

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/4-ho...t-Strip-for-Aluminum-Profile/32248970388.html

 

[Scap]

You could pocket hole and/or biscuit and glue.

Using the proper length pocket hole screw will make that a very secure piece.

Also, you could fit it up with glue, then drill for a lag bolt using a countersink bit and plug the hole after you set the lag bolts.

The lag bolt(s) would go from the face of the end piece and into the long boards forming the top and benches.

 

[MadMonk]

Open Mortise and tenon style Joinery should work. (my choice)
Doweling could work too.
Either could work, but a bit more work if you keep those mitred corners.

 

[JHolmes763]

Open Mortise and tenon style Joinery should work.

I don't have the jigs or experience for that. Guess you have to start somewhere, though.

 

[MadMonk]

I don't have the jigs or experience for that. Guess you have to start somewhere, though.

A doweling jig isn't too expensive.
The tenons and even the mortise is possible with table saw or router.
Splice joints might work, but I'd use glue and screws.

 

[bfreebern]

Which pieces, be a little more specific.

 

[Scap]

Which pieces, be a little more specific.

The benches and table top have a short mitered end cap. That's what he's worried about coming loose.

 

[bfreebern]

The benches and table top have a short mitered end cap. That's what he's worried about coming loose.

Ah! I'd countersink a screw on each side, then glue in a dowel rod to cover up the hole and saw off flush. Sand it down and whether you stain or not, it shouldn't be that noticable.

 

[grateful1]

I'd trip every time!!!!

 

[Setharsis]

Wait are you using metal or wood for the top and seats? I thought you were going to just make it all metal.

 

[JHolmes763]

I have a metal frame, only. Wood top and seats, as shown in the picture, is the idea.

 

[AVB]

Late to the party but the problem I see with the metal frame is that the actual tabletop won't be as wide as you would want. When I built mine originally it was only 5 boards wide (2x6). After the first use I added 2 more boards (the lighter colored ones on each side) which also meant changing the seat support boards and the underneath tabletop supports. Almost like rebuilding from scratch. So I'd say decide on the width and then the frame that will fit that width.

If I was doing it again I'd go 9 boards wide instead of the 7 I ended up with.

 

[JHolmes763]

Yeah, i'm going to be limited to about a 3' wide top with the metal frame.