bluue13
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2010
- Messages
- 3,338
"So why the hell not?" I just thought to myself...
Why the hell not what, you may ask?
Why not post up the recipes I've just recently come up with!
I haven't actually tasted either of these yet, except for a progress check sip of the first. But if that is any indication of how it'll turn out, I'll be very happy.
Might be cool to have some of you try to make these yourselves and see how they come out! Keep in mind too I design my recipes around my brew style so you may feel like adjusting any of these quantities and steps to what works for you
Beer Name: Hip-Hop Anonymous
Style: NEIPA (I hope)
Batch Size: 5.5 gal into fermenter
Estimated OG: 1.050
Actual OG: 1.060 (this is where something was off in my calculations but... RDWHAHB)
Notes:
For this one, I had converted back and forth a few times between 3 gal and 5 gal and think I got some of the calculations mixed up along the way, so I had to try and reassemble it best as I could. Brew notes, I don't get to crazy with hitting numbers dead nuts. It causes too much stress and unless you're a pro brewer, or brewing for mass public consumption, I just don't see the need. My theory is as long as I'm in the ballpark, it'll work for a home brewer. Away we go!
Grain Bill:
8lbs +/- Pilsner malt (Sub two row if you don't have pilsner on hand)
2lb 4ish oz Flaked Oats
1lb Cara-pils
(Have some extra DME or Dextrine on hand in case you need to adjust your OG)
Hops:
.5 oz Simcoe- Boil 15 min
1 oz Mosaic- Flame out
4oz Citra- Whirlpool 15-20 min once temp drops to 200 deg
3 oz Cascade- Dry hop 5 days
2 oz Simcoe- Dry Hop 3 days*
Yeast: Imperial Yeast "Dry Hop" liquid yeast. Vermont Ale Yeast works really well, and if you're in a pinch and don't feel like dealing with liquid yeasts, S-04 or S-05 are great workhorses.
Basic-ish mash procedure:
Water notes: I use my tap water (unfiltered) and add a crushed campden tablet to neutralize the chloramines. I also add 1/2 tsp CaCl and 1/4 tsp of Baking Soda. Through some trial and error these are the additions that give me the mouth feel I'm looking for. I didn't calculate any of this with water programs or tables or anything. Because of this, YMMV.
Mash in- 3.5 gal water @165 deg, do your best to hold stable mash temp between 150-155 deg for 75 min
Batch sparge 4.5 gal @170 deg. (I always have a little extra boiled water on hand to top up to 6.5 gal pre boil)
As I start the lautering process, I always recirculate the wort as many times as it takes for it to clarify til there are "mostly" no bits of grain and such floating around. You're ALWAYS going to have some, so don't go crazy trying to get completely "grain bit free" wort.
Note again: After each batch sparge I follow the same lautering/recirculating procedure.
Once you have your pre-boil volume where you'd like it, measure the pre-boil gravity, if that's your thing. If not, no worries.
Boil, etc:
60 min
At flame out follow the hop schedule listed above
Start the cooling/whirlpool process and add the whirlpool hops once temp drops to 200 deg.
Continue cooling down to 70 deg.
Measure OG
Transfer to sanitized fermenter
Aerate wort with O2 diffuser, or shake the bucket a little if you don't have one.
Pitch yeast, attach air lock.
Keep as close to the 68-70 degree temp window as possible. You don't want to let it creep above 72-75 if you can help it, so you don't get fusel alcohol esters. The Imperial Yeast directions are literally to keep cold, open cold, pitch cold. And that's exactly what I did for this one. I don't mind making starters but one less step is always nice.
After primary fermentation has slowed (take measurements) but not completely finished, Add first dry hop addition. I like to use muslin hop bags weighted with glass marbles (sanitized of course) but do whatever method works for you.
Two days later do your next dry hop addition.
*Now here's where I play with time a little. After the second dry hop addition, take daily gravity readings. If your gravity is still dropping each day, let 'er ride. Once you have 2-3 days of steady gravity readings, you're golden.
Some people think the hops don't add much after 72 hours, or that grassy off flavors can start to come through. I personally have never detected this from letting your DH time go longer, but again YMMV.
Transfer to sanitized keg, seal, attach CO2, set to 10-12 psi, purge the head space 4 times.
Crank the CO2 to 30psi and walk away for 24 hrs.
After 24 hrs, check carb level. If its where you want it, close the CO2, purge the headspace one more time, reduce PSI to 12, and you're good to go.
If you think it still needs more carb time, re-check it every 12 hours or so before reducing to 12.
Pour and enjoy!
I'd be happy to hear of anyone trying this out as well, and I'm also glad to answer any questions anyone has. I wrote this out the way my brain functions on a brew day, so if you're looking for anything more scientific, or something I accidentally left out, ask away!
Why the hell not what, you may ask?
Why not post up the recipes I've just recently come up with!
I haven't actually tasted either of these yet, except for a progress check sip of the first. But if that is any indication of how it'll turn out, I'll be very happy.
Might be cool to have some of you try to make these yourselves and see how they come out! Keep in mind too I design my recipes around my brew style so you may feel like adjusting any of these quantities and steps to what works for you
Beer Name: Hip-Hop Anonymous
Style: NEIPA (I hope)
Batch Size: 5.5 gal into fermenter
Estimated OG: 1.050
Actual OG: 1.060 (this is where something was off in my calculations but... RDWHAHB)
Notes:
For this one, I had converted back and forth a few times between 3 gal and 5 gal and think I got some of the calculations mixed up along the way, so I had to try and reassemble it best as I could. Brew notes, I don't get to crazy with hitting numbers dead nuts. It causes too much stress and unless you're a pro brewer, or brewing for mass public consumption, I just don't see the need. My theory is as long as I'm in the ballpark, it'll work for a home brewer. Away we go!
Grain Bill:
8lbs +/- Pilsner malt (Sub two row if you don't have pilsner on hand)
2lb 4ish oz Flaked Oats
1lb Cara-pils
(Have some extra DME or Dextrine on hand in case you need to adjust your OG)
Hops:
.5 oz Simcoe- Boil 15 min
1 oz Mosaic- Flame out
4oz Citra- Whirlpool 15-20 min once temp drops to 200 deg
3 oz Cascade- Dry hop 5 days
2 oz Simcoe- Dry Hop 3 days*
Yeast: Imperial Yeast "Dry Hop" liquid yeast. Vermont Ale Yeast works really well, and if you're in a pinch and don't feel like dealing with liquid yeasts, S-04 or S-05 are great workhorses.
Basic-ish mash procedure:
Water notes: I use my tap water (unfiltered) and add a crushed campden tablet to neutralize the chloramines. I also add 1/2 tsp CaCl and 1/4 tsp of Baking Soda. Through some trial and error these are the additions that give me the mouth feel I'm looking for. I didn't calculate any of this with water programs or tables or anything. Because of this, YMMV.
Mash in- 3.5 gal water @165 deg, do your best to hold stable mash temp between 150-155 deg for 75 min
Batch sparge 4.5 gal @170 deg. (I always have a little extra boiled water on hand to top up to 6.5 gal pre boil)
As I start the lautering process, I always recirculate the wort as many times as it takes for it to clarify til there are "mostly" no bits of grain and such floating around. You're ALWAYS going to have some, so don't go crazy trying to get completely "grain bit free" wort.
Note again: After each batch sparge I follow the same lautering/recirculating procedure.
Once you have your pre-boil volume where you'd like it, measure the pre-boil gravity, if that's your thing. If not, no worries.
Boil, etc:
60 min
At flame out follow the hop schedule listed above
Start the cooling/whirlpool process and add the whirlpool hops once temp drops to 200 deg.
Continue cooling down to 70 deg.
Measure OG
Transfer to sanitized fermenter
Aerate wort with O2 diffuser, or shake the bucket a little if you don't have one.
Pitch yeast, attach air lock.
Keep as close to the 68-70 degree temp window as possible. You don't want to let it creep above 72-75 if you can help it, so you don't get fusel alcohol esters. The Imperial Yeast directions are literally to keep cold, open cold, pitch cold. And that's exactly what I did for this one. I don't mind making starters but one less step is always nice.
After primary fermentation has slowed (take measurements) but not completely finished, Add first dry hop addition. I like to use muslin hop bags weighted with glass marbles (sanitized of course) but do whatever method works for you.
Two days later do your next dry hop addition.
*Now here's where I play with time a little. After the second dry hop addition, take daily gravity readings. If your gravity is still dropping each day, let 'er ride. Once you have 2-3 days of steady gravity readings, you're golden.
Some people think the hops don't add much after 72 hours, or that grassy off flavors can start to come through. I personally have never detected this from letting your DH time go longer, but again YMMV.
Transfer to sanitized keg, seal, attach CO2, set to 10-12 psi, purge the head space 4 times.
Crank the CO2 to 30psi and walk away for 24 hrs.
After 24 hrs, check carb level. If its where you want it, close the CO2, purge the headspace one more time, reduce PSI to 12, and you're good to go.
If you think it still needs more carb time, re-check it every 12 hours or so before reducing to 12.
Pour and enjoy!
I'd be happy to hear of anyone trying this out as well, and I'm also glad to answer any questions anyone has. I wrote this out the way my brain functions on a brew day, so if you're looking for anything more scientific, or something I accidentally left out, ask away!