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Any mechanics? Mustang won't start...

Rod

Rod

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Upland, CA
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Todd
Before I call a tow truck and pay a mechanic, I wanted to check and see if anyone knows what the problem may be...

My car (Mustang GT, manual) has been sitting for a couple of weeks. About 2 weeks ago I went to start the car and it just cranked over (starter/battery are fine). After several attempts at trying to get it started, I let it sit and came back 3 hours later, and it finally started. I blew out all of the carbon (lots of moisture came out of the tail pipes), and drove it the next day. No problems... I let the car sit for a week now, and it won't start again. Been trying to start it for the past 3 days and it just turns over. I finally got it started yesterday, and it idled fine, however when I pressed the gas peddle the engine cut off immediately, and when I release the peddle, the engine started back up on it's own immediately. It started running a little rough then died completely.

I tried push starting it just now and nothing (just clunks hard). Is it possible there's water in the gas tank? It's been cold and humid. All fuses appear fine, fuel pump sounds like it's turning on when I turn the ignition, fuel cut off switch is not activated, no loose connections under hood, no rats chewing wires... The tank is a little less than 1/4 full.

Any tips are appreciated!

Thanks,
Rod
 
Hmm.....cold and humid.....1/4 tank of gas.....lots of moisture......I'll bet you have water in the tank / gas lines.

I'd go buy a bottle of "gas dryer" which I believe is alcohol and put that in the tank. Wait half an hour and try it again. If you have a battery charger it wouldn't hurt to top the batter off a bit while you are waiting.

Sounds just exactly like what happened to a previous car of mine that was left sitting for a few weeks in winter while I was out of town. Gas dryer and a full tank of gas fixed it up. This is also why it's suggested to keep the tank full in winter - water condensation in an empty tank.

Good luck, Rod - B.B.S.
 
Something crawled up that big CAI you installed a while back. Might be a cat. It's head is stuck in the throttle body.
 
Fill it up and dump some "Sea-foam" into the gas tank. It's a good gas dryer and helps clean out gunk on injectors and plugs.

If you can get it started, let it warm up at idle for a while then slowly rev up the rpm's to see if it cuts out the same as if you throttle up abruptly. Kinda sounds like it could be some stickiness in the throttle body. Maybe take the intake off and spray some TB Cleaner onto the butterfly.

Outside of that, a faulty MAF sensor can cause some funny problems with idle and acceleration. But you'd usually get a CEL come on with that.
 
What ever brand of dry gas you use, make sure it's Ethanol not methanol based.

Doc.
 
Send it to me. I'll drive it around for a few weeks, just to test it out. It's a convertible, right?

Seriously, I also agree with the sea foam suggestion. I use it on a regular basis in the '67.
 
I SERIOUSLY doubt that it's water Rod. If that was the case, the car would not have run fine once you got it started last time . Sounds like something is sticking like the Mass Air Flow if it is indeed fuel related and you say you can hear the pump running. Have you checked to see if mice have stored food near the air filter anywhere, or made a nest?
BTW...........It's not unusual to see a good bit of moisture coming out the tailpipe when starting and warming up the engine at first.

Check to see if you have spark when cranking over.....................Disconnect one of the plug wires and insert a screw driver. Then hold on to the handle well away from the metal shaft. Then keep the shaft and plug wire about a quarter inch away from a good known ground while someone cranks the vehicle. If you see and hear a spark arcing, then you know you have fire and could have a fuel related problem such as the pump not generating enough pressure, or the injectors are not firing due to a sensor.

If no spark, then something like the crankshaft position sensor, or the camshaft position sensor could be going bad and you could start there. The former could easily go without turning on the malfunction indicator light.

Anything beyond this,.....................Call a tow truck, or find that technician acquaintance that likes to do side work. ;)

BTW............What's the year and engine size? Give me that and I can look up some Technical Service Bullitens that might give you some insight on your problem.

If the car is new enough, the gas pedal does not have a cable, but an electronic sensor that reads the position of the pedal. I've seen these go bad and cause some really wacky problems telling the computer one thing, but all the other fuel related/air induction sensors are saying something else.
 
Thanks all for your feedback. Had the car towed to the mechanic, turns out the fuel pump died. He had to drop the gas tank to replace the pump, also had to clean the tank as there was indeed some water in there. Replaced pump with a new Motorcraft pump with a 1 yr warranty.

My guess is after it sat for a few weeks on empty, water got in the tank from condensation. The filter probably started getting gummed up, which caused resistance to the pump and caused the pump to burn out. Then again, it may have just failed on its own.
 
If you had a classic Mustang, it would have been a mechanical pump attached to the engine. You could have changed it yourself. A few skinned knuckles plus several dozen four letter words and you would have been back on the road.
 
I'm looking to buy a 1964 1/2 - 1969 Mustang, but they've gotten so expensive out here. Can't find a decent Mustang for under $12k anymore. My next purchase will most likely be a 2011 Mustang GT. :)
 
Rod said:
I'm looking to buy a 1964 1/2 - 1969 Mustang, but they've gotten so expensive out here. Can't find a decent Mustang for under $12k anymore. My next purchase will most likely be a 2011 Mustang GT. :)
Click to expand...


5.0L, 412hp, 390lb/ft, 6 speed manual. I can feel my blood pressure rising already. :) My 06 might find itself traded in once i find myself employed again..
 
Rod said:
I'm looking to buy a 1964 1/2 - 1969 Mustang, but they've gotten so expensive out here. Can't find a decent Mustang for under $12k anymore. My next purchase will most likely be a 2011 Mustang GT. :)
Click to expand...

Right now I know of a certain '67 that was almost given away several weeks ago after frying the second starter motor in as many years. Defective ignition switch locked in the 'start' position. Couldn't pull the battery terminal in time. :angry: Old cars are holes in the driveway that you pour money into.

I'll let you know if anything becomes available in our region. $12,000 is your rough ceiling? Any preference for body style, engine, condition (basket case to turn-key)?
 
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