Shamrocker
Sheik Yerbouti
Neat looking design. I've seen a few kits like that before, but never put much thought into them.
What kind of Dremel bits are you using?
What kind of Dremel bits are you using?
My Pipe Project - FINISHED!
- Thread starter DesertRat
- Start date
JHolmes763
Drinkin' the koolaid
Looking good. Can definitely see the shape you're going after. That'll be a treat to smoke out of when you're done! 
DesertRat
Perpetual Newbie
Right now I'm using primarily this cutter. At a speed of 10,000 RPM's it is still slow going as I can only shave off fractions of wood at a time. The wood is hard and trying to go too fast causes the tool to bite in and kick off in directions unknown which is not good. Trying to apply too much pressure burns the wood as well. Bumping the Dremel speed to 20,000 RPM's only magnifies the problems noted.
LilBastage
Meat is murder! Tasty, tasty murder.
Looking good! I've always liked the look of a natural pipe that colors with the smoker's use. Have you looked into the staining process? Alcohol based stain is a little different than the normal stuff you use on furniture and the like. There are different techniques you can use to accentuate the grain.
I'm looking forward to seeing the finished (or "unfinished") product. :thumbs:
I'm looking forward to seeing the finished (or "unfinished") product. :thumbs:
Shamrocker
Sheik Yerbouti
Right now I'm using primarily this cutter. At a speed of 10,000 RPM's it is still slow going as I can only shave off fractions of wood at a time. The wood is hard and trying to go too fast causes the tool to bite in and kick off in directions unknown which is not good. Trying to apply too much pressure burns the wood as well. Bumping the Dremel speed to 20,000 RPM's only magnifies the problems noted.
Nevermind.... showing up now.
PJ the Comic
Official Illusione Whore
Very cool Danny,
thanks for sharing!
PJ
thanks for sharing!
PJ
Shamrocker
Sheik Yerbouti
Looks like the Dremel 115 high speed cutter. Just noticed this on their website for that attachment:
User tips:
Use the sides of the cutter (rather than the tip) for effective cutting. The tip cuts poorly and can break under pressure.
Use higher speeds for hard woods, slower speeds for metals and very slow speeds for plastics (to avoid melting at the point of contact).
If chattering occurs, increase speed.
I haven't worked with hard woods such as briar. Wonder if you might have some more success with a higher speed than you were using before?
User tips:
Use the sides of the cutter (rather than the tip) for effective cutting. The tip cuts poorly and can break under pressure.
Use higher speeds for hard woods, slower speeds for metals and very slow speeds for plastics (to avoid melting at the point of contact).
If chattering occurs, increase speed.
I haven't worked with hard woods such as briar. Wonder if you might have some more success with a higher speed than you were using before?
DesertRat
Perpetual Newbie
Shamrocker, I tried higher speeds but it didn't sit well with my Dremel. Like I said, it is 20 years old. Could be the brushes are worn or the tip is off balance.
I was able to finish the rough cutting tonight and will no longer be needing the Dremel. From this point forward it will all be hand sanding. Starting with 100 grit and slowly working up to 1500 to achieve the smooth finish I am looking for. Patience!
As you can see below, I chose a very simplistic shape, or actually the pipe chose it because that shape seemed to be what the block of briar wanted to be. Given my novice status in wood carving, I am not the least bit disappointed in the results so far.
It is a large pipe, but I wanted that substance from the beginning.
I was able to finish the rough cutting tonight and will no longer be needing the Dremel. From this point forward it will all be hand sanding. Starting with 100 grit and slowly working up to 1500 to achieve the smooth finish I am looking for. Patience!
As you can see below, I chose a very simplistic shape, or actually the pipe chose it because that shape seemed to be what the block of briar wanted to be. Given my novice status in wood carving, I am not the least bit disappointed in the results so far.
It is a large pipe, but I wanted that substance from the beginning.
JHolmes763
Drinkin' the koolaid
Is it possible to make a bigger bowl with these kits? Or is that not advised? Seems kind of small or maybe it's just the pics...
DesertRat
Perpetual Newbie
The bowl is 7/8" x 2" which is a standard width but substantially deeper than typical
Overall the pipe is 7" long x 2-5/8" tall (highest point) and 2" wide across the top of the plateaux
PhatCat
Member
Nice work so far! Looks like fun. (albeit time consuming fun)
souldog
OG Post-Whorer since 2008 bitches...
That's a beaut man. I'm gonna have to call you to pick your brain about some things....
B.HOBS
I intend to live forever. So far, so good.
Looking sweet Danny. Thats a beaut!
DonAustin
New Member
Wow thats awesome man. Im sure you'll cherish that for a long time. You make it really tempting to go buy a kit and take a shot at it. Great job brother!!
vortex
"A billion Eddie Barzoons jogging into the future
Great first effort! I like small interior diameters in large bowls. Is that .75 inch interior diam?
DesertRat
Perpetual Newbie
Pat1075
New Member
nice work that is truly something to be proud of.
DesertRat
Perpetual Newbie
Quick update:
I've finished with the sanding and all that is left to do now is decide on the stain I'm going to use. No sense in posting photos yet since the most noticeable difference between the last pics and today is all in the feel of the pipe. Smoother than a new-born baby's bottom.
I've learned one thing about briar wood in this little project. The wood, being a root, is filled with many imperfections. As I was sanding it, marks appeared that weren't there initially. At first I thought they were tool marks but looking at them with a 15x jewelers loupe, I soon realized these marks were tiny voids in the wood or minute knot-hole types of imperfections. In one area I had a small mark that looked like a simple shallow nick and as was sanding it, it got bigger and bigger and bigger before finally getting smaller and sanding out. There were even grains of sand embedded inside the wood at a couple places.
I can really appreciate now how a quality pipe can end up costing so much since it must be difficult to find a good piece of briar with the right grain and without these many defects in the wood. I read an article from a pipe maker who was talking about these natural defects and how he has had to scrap many a pipe and start anew because of them (he refuses to use wood fillers in his pipes).
The one thing I will want to do eventually with this pipe is replace the stem. The one that came with the kit from Pimo is a very poor molding. The two halves of the mold used were not fitted correctly and so there is an offset in the stem that makes it not symmetrical. I've sanded and shaped it as best I can but it is noticeably deficient.
I'm experimenting with a natural stain for this pipe that uses orange-pekoe (generic Lipton) tea as the stain. Supposedly the tannin in the tea works on the wood to make a nice light stain so I'm trying it out on a piece of cut-off wood from the original block of briar. We'll see how it goes.
Next thing I need to do aside from the staining is build a buffing tool to apply and buff the carnuba wax. I have a small electric motor left over from an old rock tumbler that should do the trick.
We are almost done and I hope to have this pipe ready to smoke by Christmas!
I've finished with the sanding and all that is left to do now is decide on the stain I'm going to use. No sense in posting photos yet since the most noticeable difference between the last pics and today is all in the feel of the pipe. Smoother than a new-born baby's bottom.
I've learned one thing about briar wood in this little project. The wood, being a root, is filled with many imperfections. As I was sanding it, marks appeared that weren't there initially. At first I thought they were tool marks but looking at them with a 15x jewelers loupe, I soon realized these marks were tiny voids in the wood or minute knot-hole types of imperfections. In one area I had a small mark that looked like a simple shallow nick and as was sanding it, it got bigger and bigger and bigger before finally getting smaller and sanding out. There were even grains of sand embedded inside the wood at a couple places.
I can really appreciate now how a quality pipe can end up costing so much since it must be difficult to find a good piece of briar with the right grain and without these many defects in the wood. I read an article from a pipe maker who was talking about these natural defects and how he has had to scrap many a pipe and start anew because of them (he refuses to use wood fillers in his pipes).
The one thing I will want to do eventually with this pipe is replace the stem. The one that came with the kit from Pimo is a very poor molding. The two halves of the mold used were not fitted correctly and so there is an offset in the stem that makes it not symmetrical. I've sanded and shaped it as best I can but it is noticeably deficient.
I'm experimenting with a natural stain for this pipe that uses orange-pekoe (generic Lipton) tea as the stain. Supposedly the tannin in the tea works on the wood to make a nice light stain so I'm trying it out on a piece of cut-off wood from the original block of briar. We'll see how it goes.
Next thing I need to do aside from the staining is build a buffing tool to apply and buff the carnuba wax. I have a small electric motor left over from an old rock tumbler that should do the trick.
We are almost done and I hope to have this pipe ready to smoke by Christmas!