I do not. I think I used flex seal on a case that holds my dogs GPS rig and it turned out OK....
Not that I am aware ofI do not. I think I used flex seal on a case that holds my dogs GPS rig and it turned out OK....
My wife's company uses these guys when they kit out a case.
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My garrison commander may be going back to the mothership. The edges on the front of the slide and frame are so sharp its shaving horsehide off my supertuck when you holster it. Are your Springer's like that?
HT
Instead of swaging, I started using this method instead. The author of video is local to me, actually took one of his classes many years ago.Wow, @Scap raises a great point I should have earlier. Both types have identical exterior dimensions, but the 5.56 brass has thicker case walls to handle higher pressures. I've mentioned Lake City only here, simply because they provide a lot of military ammo and the military sells their brass, they don't reload, so there is a lot of it available. But Winchester 5.56 brass is just as good, and most people agree that any brass your find listed as 5.56 NATO is probably just fine for AR-15 use at military pressures. If a case is stamped Rem .223 do not use in AR-15 at higher pressures. Most of the 5.56 stuff is stamped with the NATO symbol on the base. It's a little circle with a cross inside it, like below
View attachment 97315
Another important thing I forgot to mention is that once-fired military brass will have been crimped -- see the ring around the primer in the shot above? It prevents the primer from backing out from the violent reciprocating forces in belt-fed machine guns. You have to remove that before reloading or you won't get a new prime to seat. Fortunately this need only be done once. There are reamers with cut the crimp back, but I prefer to swage it (push it out of the way with a mandrel without removing any metal) and there is no better tool for this than the Dillon Super Swage.
Super Swage 600
Dillon Super Swage 600 from Dillon Precision on Vimeo. Until now, reusing military brass, with its crimped primer pockets, has been a tedious task. The Dillon solution is a remarkably simple device that bolts to your bench and allows you to swage the primer pockets with speed and ease. The case...www.dillonprecision.com
View attachment 97316
Dang, they got spendy, mine was about $79 IIRC, correctly decades ago, now they run about $150. You can search for cheaper tools, but this is the cadillac for this purpose. See it in use here.
I'm fixing to reload 1,000 5.56 in a couple weeks. My process is to
1. Count out 1,000 cases
2. Deprime - I do this with just a Lee deprimer die, no resizing because the primer is tight in a crimped case and you need a sturdier pin to get it out first time. I do this on a single stage press.
3. Clean (steel pin tumbler)
4. Swage with the Dillon tool
At this point, I'm done with initial prep, I don't bother measuring case length on once-fired brass. Now I move to my Lee Classic Cast Turret press. I don't have a true progressive, but the turret works well for me and is fairly fast.
1. Lube (10% lanolin 90% 91% strength alcohol in a spray bottle)
2. Resize/prime, bell and charge, bullet seat, Lee factory crimp die.
That's 4 pulls of the handle per round but once you get in the rhythm it goes pretty quick. If I reload that brass again, no swaging is needed, but I'll check about 1 in 20 cases and if all are within length spec I let it go. If a meaningful number are over or even close to the long spec, I'll trim the lot all at once. Then that step should never have to be done again. Then lube and run through the Turret press.
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