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Unhappy Thread

Wow that’s surprising then. The 6.2 have always struck me as bulletproof. Hope the second opinion is better than the first!

Do you have a obd code reader? Not super expensive and you can pull the codes and research on your own with a android phone. You can even clear the codes but I doubt that would fix the rough running.

I suppose you could always look at a trade in but with it running rough, they are going to discount it quite a bit...depending on what they are willing to give for it and what you were getting in return. Trucks are crazytime expensive.
Just purchased a code reader and should have it next week... I keep thinking if it was serious enough to have the engine replaced, it should run rough at speed, which it does not... it’s very smooth. I am going to see what code I receive, and get a second opinion.
 
What code reader did you order? I bought a Blue Driver back when Bluetooth coder readers were still a novelty, and it has been invaluable. There's. metric shit-tonne of different BT readers out there now that will all do a great job. I'm just curious which one you went with.

*EDIT* In the meantime, if you haven't already, I'd definitely stop driving it until you are sure of the severity of the damage.
 
What code reader did you order? I bought a Blue Driver back when Bluetooth coder readers were still a novelty, and it has been invaluable. There's. metric shit-tonne of different BT readers out there now that will all do a great job. I'm just curious which one you went with.

*EDIT* In the meantime, if you haven't already, I'd definitely stop driving it until you are sure of the severity of the damage.
I ordered this one:

BlueDriver Bluetooth Pro OBDII Scan Tool for iPhone & Android

 
I am no expert but $5k plus on labor seems excessive

figure it takes them 2 full 8 hour days to do the job. Labor should not be more than $1500-$1800
 
I am no expert but $5k plus on labor seems excessive

figure it takes them 2 full 8 hour days to do the job. Labor should not be more than $1500-$1800
They quoted 33 hours... which I think is excessive.
 
I ordered this one:

BlueDriver Bluetooth Pro OBDII Scan Tool for iPhone & Android


Well that’s a lot nicer than mine! Haha

Interesting that it runs smooth at speed. It may be indicative of a problem that isn’t 100% all the time. Which should be a good thing, because I would think it means less damage.

What did they actually do to determine lifter # 5 was bad?

I agree with what has already been said. I am surprised a bad lifter = new engine. Doesn’t sound right to me.
 
Well that’s a lot nicer than mine! Haha

Interesting that it runs smooth at speed. It may be indicative of a problem that isn’t 100% all the time. Which should be a good thing, because I would think it means less damage.

What did they actually do to determine lifter # 5 was bad?

I agree with what has already been said. I am surprised a bad lifter = new engine. Doesn’t sound right to me.
They ran it through the dealerships scanner, which “they said” was the #5 lifter..;
 
They ran it through the dealerships scanner, which “they said” was the #5 lifter..;

So from the stuff I’ve seen, the scanner is probably just indicating misfires on cylinder 5. There might be some other codes, but I wouldn’t expect them to cause the engine to run rough.

Obviously there are a whole host of things that can cause the symptoms you have given, one being the lifter. Enough said about having that fix done versus replacing the engine. I assume your good on maintenance and as such replacing an engine would be the last thing I’d do. I’d try to trade it or something before I did that. But I’m still gunshy from a failed engine replacement in my youth that resulted in paying for a engine I didn’t own and my first time leasing, lol.

I stumbled across a post about a cracked insulator on a plug causing a misfire and rough condition at idle, and smooth running at speed. Of course this was on cylinder 8, which if you have ever done plugs on these can be a royal pita to remove or to insert, and it was after a fix for...wait for it...a bad lifter and bent pushrod. It was tiny crack I guess, probably happening during the install.

I also read about one doing a similar thing where it was a dirty intake. Guy seafoamed the engine and it went away. Now I have never seafoamed an engine as I have always been nervous about it, but ymmv on that. It might be worth a conversation with a different shop or a local mechanic if you have any.

I’m interested it what the codes say. My money is on misfires and probably some oxygen sensor type stuff. I’d concentrate on the misfire stuff. The obd dongle I have allows you to use an app called “torque” iirc. I think it might have to be side loaded though, but you can set it up and kinda watch for the misfires and stuff happening real time, which is similar to what the dealers scan tool does. I haven’t used mine in years because I’ve switched to Ford for the last few and they have been leases, so always under warranty. And I have iPhone now which seems to suck for these kind of things. But if it’s still around on android it’s a pretty helpful app.
 
@CigSid Bill you missed my PSA in September... FUCK!


Get a second opinion. They will have to pull the head to see if it took out the cam or not. DO NOT DRIVE IT. If the lifter spins it will take out the cam. Then your fucked.
 
@CigSid Bill you missed my PSA in September... FUCK!


Get a second opinion. They will have to pull the head to see if it took out the cam or not. DO NOT DRIVE IT. If the lifter spins it will take out the cam. Then your fucked.
Yes, unfortunately, I missed it... Sucks.
 
@CigSid Bill you missed my PSA in September... FUCK!


Get a second opinion. They will have to pull the head to see if it took out the cam or not. DO NOT DRIVE IT. If the lifter spins it will take out the cam. Then your fucked.
Yes, dealers are famous for jumping to the most expensive conclusion.

I wonder what the after market warranty plans would charge to cover these known issues?
 
Any update, @CigSid ?
Got the car back late yesterday. I will be checking the codes later today, just to see for myself. When driving it home from the dealership, except for the rough idle, it drove perfectly, no abnormal noise from the engine, maybe it just needs some spark plugs...
 
Got the car back late yesterday. I will be checking the codes later today, just to see for myself. When driving it home from the dealership, except for the rough idle, it drove perfectly, no abnormal noise from the engine, maybe it just needs some spark plugs...

I thought that... 🤦🏻‍♂️ But I drove it home for 400 miles. And the cam was smoked.

The codes you will get will point to a miss Fire. The key way to see it is to pull the valve cover and watch the rockers when you start it up
 
I thought that... 🤦🏻‍♂️ But I drove it home for 400 miles. And the cam was smoked.

The codes you will get will point to a miss Fire. The key way to see it is to pull the valve cover and watch the rockers when you start it up
Was it making noise? How could you tell when the cam was smoked?
 
Was it making noise? How could you tell when the cam was smoked?
It was running rough at low speeds and idle but at highway speed it felt fine. The check engine light was flashing and the stabilitrak light was on. After I replaced the plugs, coils and wires and it didn’t fix it I pulled the valve cover. At that point you can see which rocker isn’t moving.

With my truck I stopped there and sent it to a shop. When he pulled the head on that side you can see the cam shaft when you pull out the lifters. It was clear by all the metal in the motor and the cam lob was ground down.

With the wife’s I pulled the head myself and looked but it was not chewed like mine was. Just pitted. Look at the first post in the thread I did. You will see the pics.
 
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